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kegkilla

The Big Mod
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DO NOT considering shuking if youre gonna use the drive for torrents/transcode streaming, whatever.

unless you are sure the shucked drive will be a red, you'll probably get a white.

also most shucked drives will come with 3.3v disability, so you'll either have to pull your 3.3v sata pin or (the better solution) is to put kaplon tape over the 3rd pin

Vipe 100ft 20mm High Temperatur Resistant Tape Anti-heat Polyimide Kapton Tape
The white labels at high GB (12 and 14) tend to be WD Ultrastars set to 5400. Seems like a great drive for my purposes... any reason I'd want to avoid those?
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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The white labels at high GB (12 and 14) tend to be WD Ultrastars set to 5400. Seems like a great drive for my purposes... any reason I'd want to avoid those?
oh if thats the case, sure. the previous 6 and 8tb ones were coming out w/ just data drives and not red drives.

pretty sure i just saw a bestbuy $190wd 12tb

edit yea

i'd double check the model
WDBCKA0120HBK-NESN

and see what shuckers say

note, this isn't the "best" price for a 12tb, the lowest is like 175, but who knows when you'll see that again.
 
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Lanx

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also if you want to shuck, find out how to pop the tabs w/o breaking them in case you get a drive you don't want

i find a 5in1 painters tool is the best
8606.jpg


the blade is wide enough that you won't cause a dent like you would with a screw driver, and the but is reinforced that you can hammer on it like a chisel (thats what i used to use)

if you did not damage the plastic but the drive is still not to your liking, return it to best buy and say the reason is "you couldn't install the software to make the drive work for some reason, maybe windows permissions?"

wd external drives have a run program to install wd store software to backup to it and make it run (obviously if you want to keep the drive, just format the drive and repartition the drive to get rid of the software and boot partition)
 
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mkopec

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I have all my PC hardwired in the house. They are all used for gaming. I use a digital splitter since my cable wi fi thing in the basement only has a few hardwire ports.
 

Mist

Eeyore Enthusiast
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The white labels at high GB (12 and 14) tend to be WD Ultrastars set to 5400. Seems like a great drive for my purposes... any reason I'd want to avoid those?
Do you really need the storage performance? Can't you just get a NUC and just hook up the external HDD instead of busting it open?
 

kegkilla

The Big Mod
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Do you really need the storage performance? Can't you just get a NUC and just hook up the external HDD instead of busting it open?
I’m going to need a lot more than 1 drive in the long run. I’m pushing 9GB right now and I only just started collecting 4K remuxes.
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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I’m going to need a lot more than 1 drive in the long run. I’m pushing 9GB right now and I only just started collecting 4K remuxes.
if you want the most gb per drive then it's obviously 14gb, but you've probably seen the crazy premium for that, 12tb at $175 - $200 depending on sales and market prices is gonna be your target imo

and like what you said it's server drives in em, well i might have to get to shucking too!
 

kegkilla

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if you want the most gb per drive then it's obviously 14gb, but you've probably seen the crazy premium for that, 12tb at $175 - $200 depending on sales and market prices is gonna be your target imo

and like what you said it's server drives in em, well i might have to get to shucking too!
Yeah I don't love the idea of $70 for 2 more GB, it seems like 12 GB is the sweet spot for me right now.
 

Terial

Trakanon Raider
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Ram Question...
Currently in my New PC (about 8 months old) i have
16GB 8GBx2 DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel

I have an old PC that i just took ram out of, it's
4GB 2Rx8 PC3-12800U-11-12-B1 DDR3
I have 2 of these sticks... so an additional 8GB

would there be an issue slapping these 2 into my PC?
 
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Crone

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Vorph Vorph Not to derail the HZD thread further, is this the older model LG that was pretty good? I was surprised to see it for just $500.

 

kegkilla

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You can get it through here, just takes forever:

Having an NUC and a NAS is an option but I'd really prefer the aesthetic of having everything in one box. Although it looks like you can get the U series in the NUCs which would be nice. I need this thing to be literally silent.
I'm thinking using the T series processor is probably stupid and wasted effort when I could get the non T version and undervolt/underclock it myself. I can't imagine there's any difference in the silicon in the T and non T processors Intel is producing. In fact the T series might actually be lower performing chips that are binned accordingly and can't handle the clocks/voltage that well.

Any flaws in this logic?
 

Vorph

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Vorph Vorph Not to derail the HZD thread further, is this the older model LG that was pretty good? I was surprised to see it for just $500.
Only 60Hz and doesn't even have Freesync 1, so I'd say that is a monitor for work not gaming. If you want sub-$500, you'll probably need to look at some VA panels like the AOC 34" (probably the best but it lasts 1-2 hours in stock at Amazon whenever they get any in, then disappears for weeks) or the Sceptre 35". I'm looking pretty closely at the Sceptre right now, wouldn't mind replacing my oldest panel but I'm not shellng out a grand+ until 5K2K is common/reasonably priced.

Just be aware that VA panels still only have about 95-115% 8-bit sRGB and the response time isn't as good as the latest and greatest IPS no matter what the specs say.
 
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Lambourne

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I'm thinking using the T series processor is probably stupid and wasted effort when I could get the non T version and undervolt/underclock it myself. I can't imagine there's any difference in the silicon in the T and non T processors Intel is producing. In fact the T series might actually be lower performing chips that are binned accordingly and can't handle the clocks/voltage that well.

Any flaws in this logic?

Have you considered picking up a used server from ebay? Plenty of dual Xeon units to be had for under $250, they usually come a good amount of ECC memory too. Should give you more stability than trying to wring something out of consumer level hardware.
 

kegkilla

The Big Mod
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Have you considered picking up a used server from ebay? Plenty of dual Xeon units to be had for under $250, they usually come a good amount of ECC memory too. Should give you more stability than trying to wring something out of consumer level hardware.
Good thought, but issue there is that only a few select E3 v6 xeons have the 630 graphics chip that allows for Quick Sync transcoding, and they're all newer and probably not going to be obtained on the cheap.
 

Crone

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Only 60Hz and doesn't even have Freesync 1, so I'd say that is a monitor for work not gaming. If you want sub-$500, you'll probably need to look at some VA panels like the AOC 34" (probably the best but it lasts 1-2 hours in stock at Amazon whenever they get any in, then disappears for weeks) or the Sceptre 35". I'm looking pretty closely at the Sceptre right now, wouldn't mind replacing my oldest panel but I'm not shellng out a grand+ until 5K2K is common/reasonably priced.

Just be aware that VA panels still only have about 95-115% 8-bit sRGB and the response time isn't as good as the latest and greatest IPS no matter what the specs say.
I'd want 75-100hz and at least G-sync compatible. I should just go to nVidia's list, as I'm sure the number of ultra-wides on that list is extremely limited. I'm team green all the way.

1597078859552.png


So it's Freesync, good response times, 144hz, all for under $500? What's the catch? It's not G-sync, and on ultra-wides that's still a $500 feature?

More edits: diamond in the rough? Reviews say it was released earlier this year without any marketing, and so it's hard to find reviews, etc. Gsync compatible.

 
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Vorph

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r/UWMR seems to indicate that the AOC is [unofficially] Gsync compatible, but you will get some flicker if the fps drops below the adaptive refresh rate floor (48Hz, from what I'm seeing). I guess that's because it's a VA panel? I've never seen flicker on IPS even when it drops below the 40 Hz minimum on mine, but I'm Team Red for everything so I'm using Freesync natively. Even then they're saying it's really only a problem in games which lock the fps to something like 30 when you're in the menus.

The Monoprice Dark Matter 34" seems to be pretty popular there too, if you can find it in stock. MP website says they expect a resupply today: Dark Matter by Monoprice 34in Curved Ultra-Wide Gaming Monitor - 1500R, 21:9, 3440x1440p, UWQHD, 144Hz, DisplayHDR 400, AMD FreeSync, Height Adjustable Stand, Quantum Dot, VA - Monoprice.com
 

Crone

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r/UWMR seems to indicate that the AOC is [unofficially] Gsync compatible, but you will get some flicker if the fps drops below the adaptive refresh rate floor (48Hz, from what I'm seeing). I guess that's because it's a VA panel? I've never seen flicker on IPS even when it drops below the 40 Hz minimum on mine, but I'm Team Red for everything so I'm using Freesync natively. Even then they're saying it's really only a problem in games which lock the fps to something like 30 when you're in the menus.

The Monoprice Dark Matter 34" seems to be pretty popular there too, if you can find it in stock. MP website says they expect a resupply today: Dark Matter by Monoprice 34in Curved Ultra-Wide Gaming Monitor - 1500R, 21:9, 3440x1440p, UWQHD, 144Hz, DisplayHDR 400, AMD FreeSync, Height Adjustable Stand, Quantum Dot, VA - Monoprice.com
Nice. About to buy that AoC from that one seller for $437, and use hotel points to buy it. Lol

Since it's still Prime, if I have backlight bleed or dead pixels I can return it.

Edit: FUCK! That seller is gone now. :(