Home Improvement

Hateyou

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If he did some of that work himself he would’ve came out ahead. So, it’s not really a “make money” or “save money” video. Not sure who that video is for other than people who like tiny houses.
 

Captain Suave

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So he lost money on it. Great.
Probably broke even if he properly monetized 7M youtube views. Also, it's not a true loss until he sells, and that assumes the appraisal is accurate. If he holds it could easily appreciate.

Mostly, I think the layout is weird. I would have put the kitchen and social areas on the ground floor.
 

Hateyou

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Probably broke even if he properly monetized 7M youtube views. Also, it's not a true loss until he sells, and that assumes the appraisal is accurate. If he holds it could easily appreciate.

Mostly, I think the layout is weird. I would have put the kitchen and social areas on the ground floor.
Nah that just paid for his Herman Miller chair.
 

Lanx

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i finally bought a flir, i like that it overslays the outline of what i'm looking at

*edit,
it was annoying that, at the time they only had the iphone model, so i had to borrow my wifes iphone when i wanted to check shit, then i went to see whats the lowest iphone it'll work w/ (app and device) and it's a 7, whelp i'm in luck i had a 6s and 7 in my bugout bag so now i have a dedicated phone just for this shit, lulz
 
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Lanx

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the beginning of the video is basically my exact situation, the main floor "closet" is all the way on the otherside of the house underneath the stairs, and it's right again a tiny pantry, basically the same size. (it would actually connect if i knock out a wall)

no idea what to do, i at least plant to knock out the little area underneath the stairs, thats a lot of storage waiting to be exploited.
 

lurker

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Don't remove drywall like that with a hammer. You're going to need a clean edge to put it back together anyway so you might as well make a clean, thought-out cut to start with. Draw some a plumb/level lines on the wall and cut it with an oscillating tool. If you're practiced, you can saw with one hand and hold a vacuum hose in the other, but regardless, you'll make minimal dust. I don't know why the wife is laughing. She's got a day's worth of dusting to do throughout the house because that guy didn't even bother to tape up $2 worth of painter's plastic to confine his mess before he went all neanderthal on that wall. Sheesh.
 
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Hateyou

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Yeah if you cut the drywall with a knife straight up and down in the center of each stud, if things don’t work out you can just stick it back in place and reattach the cut out piece by nailing it back on the stud. Then patch over the line you made.
 
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Lanx

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oh yea, i don't remove drywall like that, i'm a good eco-bitch actually

this is the removal of the wall for my horror closet
20220410_133736.jpg

i practically saved all 4 of these panels (both sides) and even the moulding

i got this trim hammer a while back and you just score along the line and just whack it loose
6566eb4cba4a3db1ca7f8e166ba69ce5.png


i got stuck cuz my sawzall already has a dull blade and my ryobi saw is a beginner 5in saw

so i just ordered a regular 7.5in saw along w/ a hammer drill (for paint mixing) cuz the last time i mixed 5gallons of paint my regular drill was smoking.

i'm once again going to be ryobi's bitch, but now i've upgraded to being a ryobi one+ hp bitch, right Sanrith Descartes Sanrith Descartes ?
 
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Goatface

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1649635933226.png

this is my friends property, the big box is main house, the little box is a storage house and not had power in 2 decades. Red is power line, black - road, blue - new path. house and shack are about 350-400' apart.
power company wants to remove the pole closest to little house and run a new line beside the driveway. cutting down about a dozen trees in the process.
is there a reason why they would want do this? they are end of the line and there are no issues with the pole near the shack. he bought the house over 10 years ago, and none of his paperwork refers to what kind of easement the power company has.

edit
this would remove wires from the view so that is a plus and if prices ever go down make it a little easier to bury the wires.
 

Falxy-US

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Question:

I have a 18 x 18 foot grass filled area in my backyard that I want to have covered in concrete and make a little outdoor area. During a previous freeze, I had a pipe bust in this area, and I had a fountain of water coming out of the grass. I had to dig down and find the pipe that was bust, and it was some old irrigation line (I no longer have a sprinkler system, etc.) The plumber at the time dug out the area and capped the pipe near where it burst. But: (1) no idea where that pipe even runs, and (2) no idea what other phantom pipes still exist in there.

So my question... What do I do about that? I mean, what if we concrete over it and a fucking pipe bursts again?
 

Hateyou

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Question:

I have a 18 x 18 foot grass filled area in my backyard that I want to have covered in concrete and make a little outdoor area. During a previous freeze, I had a pipe bust in this area, and I had a fountain of water coming out of the grass. I had to dig down and find the pipe that was bust, and it was some old irrigation line (I no longer have a sprinkler system, etc.) The plumber at the time dug out the area and capped the pipe near where it burst. But: (1) no idea where that pipe even runs, and (2) no idea what other phantom pipes still exist in there.

So my question... What do I do about that? I mean, what if we concrete over it and a fucking pipe bursts again?
Well if you pave over it and it happens again you have to punch a hole through the concrete, fix it, get the hole patched. It’s obviously more expensive than if it wasn’t there but it’s doable.

I would cap the irrigation line before the pipe so it just never has water in it to burst, and/or dig it out completely, That’s going to be cheaper, and no stupid repairs to your concrete in the future.
 
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Falxy-US

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Well if you pave over it and it happens again you have to punch a hole through the concrete, fix it, get the hole patched. It’s obviously more expensive than if it wasn’t there but it’s doable.

I would cap the irrigation line before the pipe so it just never has water in it to burst, and/or dig it out completely, That’s going to be cheaper, and no stupid repairs to your concrete in the future.

Ok don't laugh at my question: so basically before pouring concrete, we would dig down and find the line, and then trace it to where it starts and then cap it there?
 

Hateyou

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Ok don't laugh at my question: so basically before pouring concrete, we would dig down and find the line, and then trace it to where it starts and then cap it there?
I won’t laugh at you but I will call you a retard. Yes retard, do that.
 
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Hateyou

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Ok don't laugh at my question: so basically before pouring concrete, we would dig down and find the line, and then trace it to where it starts and then cap it there?
You likely don’t need to dig. If you call 811, they come out and mark utility lines, I believe water lines is one that the mark. Since it’s an irrigation system and not a utility water line maybe they don’t, not sure sonce I haven’t dealt with that. Call em and ask.

You should have some pipes sticking out of the ground with gauges / levers on it where all those irrigation pipes come from. That’s where you’d want to cap to kill the water supply. Once water stops going into the pipes there’s nothing to freeze and burst. You most likely don’t need to dig anything, unless they’re shallow and getting in the way when they dig to pour the concrete.
 

BrutulTM

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811 will only mark the utilities lines, not anything you installed yourself. I've never had an irrigation system but I assume that it comes from the house, like there must be a controller or something in the house or the garage where you'd want to cut it off?
 

Lanx

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if you need a drill/driver ryobi has an older reconditioned set for 60bucks
1d74c442214c61222e9bb49278308701.png


and you get a water sprayer too

it is older, and NOT brushless, NOT HP

i get most of my ryobi stuff from this place, if you're worried about it
a443f46b3abe8b67d2701f7ed94f63b7.png
 

whoo

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811 will only mark the utilities lines, not anything you installed yourself. I've never had an irrigation system but I assume that it comes from the house, like there must be a controller or something in the house or the garage where you'd want to cut it off?
Before I moved to the homestead, we had an irrigation system. It was not fed from the house, but from the water supply meter /valve at the street. If you have one of those plastic/metal plates near the street where the main water shutoff /meter is, you may have a takeoff there with its own shutoff valve. It would be on the house side of the meter, but still inside the little box. Shutting this off/capping it is the way to go. No need to dig it all up unless it's interfering with plantings etc.
 
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Goatface

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never been to a place to look at these, but is it possible to get them really tall or stack on risers?

1650210433569.png

need a distribution box and catch basin to combine 2 4" inlets and 2-3 6" outlets. the outlets have to be low to go under a driveway "bridge", so the box will need be like 40" tall to get up to grade for a grate to handle overflow
 

lurker

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never been to a place to look at these, but is it possible to get them really tall or stack on risers?

View attachment 408409
need a distribution box and catch basin to combine 2 4" inlets and 2-3 6" outlets. the outlets have to be low to go under a driveway "bridge", so the box will need be like 40" tall to get up to grade for a grate to handle overflow

I don't know what's available, either but if I couldn't find what I wanted/needed I'd build one out of thick (5/8 or 3/4 plywood and fiberglass. One sheet of plywood, one quart of resin with hardener, a small package of mat, Harbor Freight $18 hole saw set and some screws should be enough to do the job.
 
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