ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
- Start date
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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I have said many times that those controllers are intentionally designed to be impossible to use just so people will pay landscapers to come and program them. I swear the engineers that build them are bribed to make them as user unfriendly as possible. There's no other explanation for some of the UIs on the things.
Oblio
Utah
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I am sure if I could have gotten the Rachio 3 connected to my wifi it would have been great. It had some neat features for weather based auto watering. Apparently they are not very compatible with Asus Routers, supposedly overcome by port forwarding. Just not in my case.
The Rain Bird is not nearly as advanced, but it was cheaper and did connect right away. The app is simple enough and truthfully anything is an improvement over having to run from my mudroom to the outside to test shit.
lurker
Vyemm Raider
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I bought the Orbit several years ago and it has always worked well and because they keep improving the app, it works even better.
When I was selling these things, the biggest problem people had with them was they were installing them where their wifi signal was weak. Usually this was in the garage off in the corner far away from the router.
When I was selling these things, the biggest problem people had with them was they were installing them where their wifi signal was weak. Usually this was in the garage off in the corner far away from the router.
Oblio
Utah
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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do you have one of those routers that combine 5g and 2.4g into the same ssid?
like normally youd have
fohwifi_5g
fohwifi_2g
some routers can combine it w/ band steering so you just have
fohwifi
maybe the rachio couldn't deal w/ band steering
Oblio
Utah
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I have 5ghz 2.4ghz and a guest for both.
Maybe you are right but the utter dipshits that work at rachio tech support never said that was an issue. They just said they had issues with Asus.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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i have an asus too and their band steering is called smart connect, it's on by default
but yea fuck em w/ that poor tech support
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Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Erronius
or anybody else that’s got some experience fishing wires through finished walls - how terrible of an idea is it to use existing coax to pull cat6? I know it’ll fuck the next guy if he actually wants to use coax, but I never will. My internet is DSL and coax is only for satellite that I’ll never use.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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sure, usually those installations are pretty garbage cuz it's a cable guy that is just trying to run the wire from the outside and just wraps it around the outside of the house and just drills straight through the wall.
thats what i noticed on my old house, actually i also fucked over the next owner, i rewired the cable from my living room to the masterbath closet (where i had my rack).
that was actually rather easy, i had fishing rod to push the wire into the attic
and i basically wired everything from my attic down into the rooms
just tie a string/rope at the end of your run so you can redo it if you have to.
not coax is pretty stiff, so you might have hulk smash it if it went around a corner or up through a joist
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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also i don't know about your bits but i'd get a drill bit, (whatever this is called)
over a spade bit
a spade bit might be good like 1/2in thick wood but if youre drilling through a 2x4 from the side, those bits are nice, also they have that screw/drill tip so you could just shove a drill bit onto the 2x4 stud and it'll grip and stay and you can drill w/o having it slosh around in the wall.
also remember that you can use your baseboards to run wire
just remove the baseboard (use knife cut caulking, etc) cut the bottom piece of the drywall length wise, and you can run your wires right behind it, if you do do that, put a few of these on the studs to protect your wires
i did that for my bathroom across 2 studs and it worked great, one tip i picked up was when you remove the nail on the baseboard, pull it through the board instead of pushing it out, this will prevent wood blowout and the hole might just be a little bit bigger.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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I have 25 pieces of 30” 1010/1020 steel tubing, 1/2” outer diameter. Picked them up from the pipe supply company yesterday. They’re industrial looking, small bits of surface rust but nothing bad. I’d like to clean them up to be more presentable for indoor use. Was thinking about washing off with some detergent or other cleaner, maybe turpentine, to get off the factory oil / residue. They aren’t black coated like piping from HD. Then hand sanding with 80, 120, 180 and see where that gets me.
Don’t need them to look like stainless steel or anything. But right now they’re a little too grungy. Also don’t want to buy an angle grinder or other tool at the moment.
Have a couple other ideas to try and see what results it gets. But figured I’d ask if anyone knew a way to knock this out.
Don’t need them to look like stainless steel or anything. But right now they’re a little too grungy. Also don’t want to buy an angle grinder or other tool at the moment.
Have a couple other ideas to try and see what results it gets. But figured I’d ask if anyone knew a way to knock this out.
Oblio
Utah
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Steel wool with some WD-40 will take care of that rust no problem.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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I was gonna give that a try too so good to hear it suggested. I’m not overly concerned with the rust, specifically, I have a wire wheel / brush for my drill that can be used. Polish isn’t the right word because it implies that it needs to be shiny or mirror or like stainless steel. And that isn’t my expectation. Just don’t want it looking like it rolled off the factory floor. Hah.
Going to clear coat it with a spray after to prevent / impede further rusting.
Daidraco
Golden Baronet of the Realm
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Depending on the application for these... you could just call around to the local metal shops and see who has sand blaster equipment and see how much it would cost to do that. But if this is some random project of yours or you dont want to spend any type of money on them - then .. ya, I guess the WD40 route is all you can really do?
Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Look man, what one man does with his steel bars is his business, okay! Get off my back!
Just kidding...
I cut out and put together the carcass for a dog kennel this weekend. Didn't put the frame on because couldn't pick up the bars until Tuesday so went ahead and primed the inside while waiting. So these will be used for the kennel area. Trying to get it finished this week so it has two weeks to sit. Not 100% concerned with off gas because trying to use water based stuff and not high VOC.
Anyways, yeah, the tubing will be the bars. Then we'll have two shelves for dog food, toys, bowls, whatever.
Laid these out testing spacing over the 40" rail. Assuming a 3.5" center spacing that leaves 3" between each bar. Was just trying to see visually how it looked as well as if that was too narrow or too wide for doggo. I'll just do a 1/2" auger bit through the 3/4" railing. My plan is to do it full through the 3" top and 2" in to the lower rail, that way I can drop them in and through. I could do just 2" in both but think this way may be a touch easier. I'll test it on some scrap before.
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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This. But also know that they will rust again, even inside your house unless you clear coat them.
EDIT: After seeing that picture I see that it has the anti-rust oil on it too. Might be worth picking up a gallon of acetone to clean them. It will be a lot cheaper than WD-40 and probably work better.
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Daidraco
Golden Baronet of the Realm
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He says hes going to clear coat them, but Im thinking collars, scratching, chains, whatever, is going to scratch it off. Then the occasional splash of Ammonia is going to make those bars rust a 1000 times worse. Regardless, I request finished product pictures
Intrinsic
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