Home Improvement

Borzak

Borzak

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Garlic cures cancer. But only in tansvestites sleeping with my dad that, but I kept her hoped up on drugs so it worked out.

Oh wait, nevermind.
 
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TJT

TJT

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Frenzied Wombat said:
Anybody have any experience dealing with Woodpeckers? I'm at fucking wit's end here.

After spending almost 2K in repairs over the last three years repairing damage to my cedar siding caused by woodpeckers, I went ahead and replaced the siding on my house with fiber cement at the cost of 30K, and chose it specifically because everything I researched said woodpeckers wouldn't fuck with fiber cement. I didn't change it specifically because of woodpecker damage, but primarily because the fuckwad builder had used finishing nails to install the cedar siding, hence it started to warp and pop to shit after a few years, but the woodpeckers were certainly incentive. Well, not 24hrs had passed since the new siding had been installed and painted when I heard the dreaded knocking on my walls at 7am. These little fuckers can do a lot of damage in a short period of time.

Over the years I've tried:
- Silver discs and streamers hanging from the windows. Butt ugly and stopped working after a week or two.
- Helium filled reflective balloons "trapped" under my roofline where they love to attack. Also ugly, required daily balloon prep, and had limited effectiveness after a month or so.
- Fake Owl. Totally ineffective after a day or two.
- Bird-X Woodpecker repeller. This actually worked after I had the right "predator" dialed in, but the various fake predator noises it made would drive the neighbors' dogs *crazy* and elicited complaints.

Only things I haven't tried:
- A pellet gun. It's supposedly a federal crime to shoot woodpeckers, but I'm desperate here, and would only really be effective if these woodpeckers are the same crew of assholes.
-Installing an Owl box on the tree outside and hope it attracts a real owl. I'm just not sure whether the owls here in Dallas are a threat to woodpeckers, or if they are even really relevant during the early morning, which is when the Woodpeckers attack.

Totally fucking nuts that I'm being pownd by fucking woodpeckers.
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I left out peanut butter with rat poison in it (around the holes they made). The ones that didn't die decided to permanently relocate. I also drowned their nests with the hose twice.
 
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Frenzied Wombat

Frenzied Wombat

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TJT said:
I left out peanut butter with rat poison in it (around the holes they made). The ones that didn't die decided to permanently relocate. I also drowned their nests with the hose twice.
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I take it you're not a member of the Audubon Society lol?
 
Dandai

Dandai

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I’m using the spare room over my garage as a guest room and needed to give it some kind of door. I opted for a sliding barn door so I didn’t have to do any framing or tear into the floor. Fortunately, my father in law was here for Thanksgiving and helped me with the build and install. We learned several ways that the rail wouldn’t work, but the door itself was pretty straightforward and came out aesthetically pleasing.

Obviously it blocking the vent while it’s open is less than optimal, but if it slid the other way it’d be blocking the return and that’s even worse.
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Alasliasolonik

Alasliasolonik

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Dandai said:
I’m using the spare room over my garage as a guest room and needed to give it some kind of door. I opted for a sliding barn door so I didn’t have to do any framing or tear into the floor. Fortunately, my father in law was here for Thanksgiving and helped me with the build and install. We learned several ways that the rail wouldn’t work, but the door itself was pretty straightforward and came out aesthetically pleasing.

Obviously it blocking the vent while it’s open is less than optimal, but if it slid the other way it’d be blocking the return and that’s even worse.
View attachment 320488View attachment 320487View attachment 320489
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Looks great!
 
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Aychamo BanBan

Aychamo BanBan

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IMG_6380.jpg


Looking for some advice. I want to do the wall of this room in panel moulding (the stuff that looks like a picture frame on the wall).

The book case juts into the room, which throws the center of the room off. So I'm doing this moulding using the true center of the room, which the couch, and ceiling lights/fan are aligned with. My plan is to have four inch gaps between each panel, each panel will be 31.5 inches wide, with the middle panel being 56 inches wide (to accomdiate a painting), 5 panels total.

My question is what to do with the panel that will collide with the bookcase to the left. Option A is the red line, that would go down, angle over and terminate against the bookcase. (If the bookcase weren't there, the moulding would go another 5 inches over.) Option B is the yellow line, which would be to make that 5th panel be abnormally thin. I worry about this option because the middle panel in the room is already very big for the painting, so it would look weird to have one panel big, three smaller panels, then one very small panel.

Which way would you go?
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Falxy-US said:
View attachment 320529

Looking for some advice. I want to do the wall of this room in panel moulding (the stuff that looks like a picture frame on the wall).

The book case juts into the room, which throws the center of the room off. So I'm doing this moulding using the true center of the room, which the couch, and ceiling lights/fan are aligned with. My plan is to have four inch gaps between each panel, each panel will be 31.5 inches wide, with the middle panel being 56 inches wide (to accomdiate a painting), 5 panels total.

My question is what to do with the panel that will collide with the bookcase to the left. Option A is the red line, that would go down, angle over and terminate against the bookcase. (If the bookcase weren't there, the moulding would go another 5 inches over.) Option B is the yellow line, which would be to make that 5th panel be abnormally thin. I worry about this option because the middle panel in the room is already very big for the painting, so it would look weird to have one panel big, three smaller panels, then one very small panel.

Which way would you go?
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do you have 4inch crown moulding? i think that would clash with having full wall panel moulding, maybe just have it on the lower side
 
Uber Uberest

Uber Uberest

rdr^2
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Dandai said:
I’m using the spare room over my garage as a guest room and needed to give it some kind of door. I opted for a sliding barn door so I didn’t have to do any framing or tear into the floor. Fortunately, my father in law was here for Thanksgiving and helped me with the build and install. We learned several ways that the rail wouldn’t work, but the door itself was pretty straightforward and came out aesthetically pleasing.

Obviously it blocking the vent while it’s open is less than optimal, but if it slid the other way it’d be blocking the return and that’s even worse.
View attachment 320488View attachment 320487View attachment 320489
Click to expand...
Late to the party, but why did you choose blocking the supply over the return? The return is still going to suck air in the cavity left between the door and wall, for the entirety of that door space, whatever those cubic inches end up being, would not be a huge makeup loss. The supply is just going to heat that door, and create a backpressure that will force itself back in to your trunk and plenum. Super bad for balancing and just general efficiency and heat loss.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Uber Uberest said:
Late to the party, but why did you choose blocking the supply over the return? The return is still going to suck air in the cavity left between the door and wall, for the entirety of that door space, whatever those cubic inches end up being, would not be a huge makeup loss. The supply is just going to heat that door, and create a backpressure that will force itself back in to your trunk and plenum. Super bad for balancing and just general efficiency and heat loss.
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Because I obviously don't know what I'm talking about. Guess I'll make an effort to keep the door closed until I can get the rail moved over if you think it's a pretty big deal. I've got two heat pump units (they cover roughly equally over a 2200 sq ft house). Each room has a return and there's several vents.

Edit: I'm in Florida so I have the heat on now, but the AC is on almost year round.
 
Uber Uberest

Uber Uberest

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Dandai said:
Because I obviously don't know what I'm talking about. Guess I'll make an effort to keep the door closed until I can get the rail moved over if you think it's a pretty big deal. I've got two heat pump units (they cover roughly equally over a 2200 sq ft house). Each room has a return and there's several vents.

Edit: I'm in Florida so I have the heat on now, but the AC is on almost year round.
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As long as there isn't a thermostat in that room it's not a huge deal. It's just going to fuck with the heat and AC when the door is open obviously, and will affect the other areas close to that room as backpressure builds in to the system. If there is a thermostat in that room you could be really fucked.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Uber Uberest said:
As long as there isn't a thermostat in that room it's not a huge deal. It's just going to fuck with the heat and AC when the door is open obviously, and will affect the other areas close to that room as backpressure builds in to the system. If there is a thermostat in that room you could be really fucked.
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Nah, no thermostat in that room. It’s a spare room over the garage. Even before putting the door up there it was significantly different temp than the rest of the house due to being on the second floor and a large open room.
 
Aychamo BanBan

Aychamo BanBan

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Lanx said:
i mean, i'm sure you've done a mockup with masking tape already and seen how it looks
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IMG_6398.png


I ended up figuring out the best way to do it. I made all panels equal then subtracted whatever was needed from the left panel, to keep the spacing the same from the bookcase.

For anyone interested, what you see here took me about 3 hours. There's lots of great tutorials on YouTube for panel molding, basically I had two blocks of wood that are 4" wide, and I could space the trim from the wall and (ceiling/baseboard/chair molding) at the same time exactly, so it would take about 5 seconds to know where to place the horizontal pieces, then after they are all placed I'd measure for the vertical pieces. The variance in height of the difference pieces was about 1/4" to 5/8" max, which is absolutely imperceptible.

Next is fill in the nail holes, caulk, then prime, then paint it the same color/sheen as the wall color so it blends in and looks old school.
 
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