Rock climbing: Bouldering,Sport,Trad, Free solo, Deep water

Goin climbing in Red Rocks , Nevada end of March. So stoked
Anyone been there and have some can't miss routes?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/redrocks.html

The only thing I'm curious about is how they set up those speed record attempts. In all the footage it looks like he is unroped but he has a rope at the summit. Does he have people waiting at certain spots on the mountain to belay him through the sketchier stuff?

Starting to plan out my vacations for the summer. 2 weeks at the Red at the end of May, and another 2-2.5 weeks in Maple in June. Have to get my climbing on before my last year of pharmacy school.

Alex Honnold on Joe Rogan Podcast. Interview starts at 9 minutes.

http://climbingnarc.com/videos/alex-...ogans-podcast/

Loving it! Downside is I keep banging my knee against the wall when I have to go horizontal and then jump up to grab another one. ;\

I'm glad we have some climbers on this board. I started climbing last summer and have really gotten into it. Just at gyms so far but I want to get out to Tahoe to do some trad this summer if I can find someone that's got a proper idea of what to do.

Unfortunately I took a bad fall snowboarding and tore my AC, so I'm totally unable to climb for a few months at least. Not being able to climb is absolutely the worst part of the injury.

Anyone here have a good idea of shoes for larger sizes? I wear a 13 US, and finding proper shoes has been a bitch. I've tried looking around on the internet (local shops discriminate against larger sizes by never carrying them) but have not had much luck for anything outside of real basic shoes.

Evolv makes the best entry level shoe at an affordable price. 89 bucks for the Evolv Defy is a really good deal, but besides the defy, I don't recommend Evolv. Their high end shoes are usually really bulky, but for a good all around, economic, gym shoe you can't beat the Defy.

I've heard that Evolvs also can't be resolled, or at least not as many times as other shoes?

In the Seattle area we have an outdoors shop called Second Ascent that does second hand shoes. I found a killer deal on some out of production 5.10s for $50 that looked as though they had been worn 4-5 times. Hell, they've even stretched out a bit since I bought them and I've only been climbing 3-4 times until I hurt my shoulder.

Something like that may be worth looking into for your first pair of shoes since you may not have a solid feel for exactly the type of shoe you want to climb in regularly. I had seriously considered a super low volume shoe, but since I don't climb a lot of overhand (I need to lose a lot more weight first) a good all-around shoe was a better idea for me personally. Make sure you try on a lot of different shoes before you really pick one. I have super small heel cups and low ankle bones, so a lot of men's shoes were painful to wear and my heel would always slip. I ended up in a women's shoe since they're a lot narrower through the heel and generally have a lower cut for the ankle bones.

That's cool and all, but damn... I'd really hoped that Sharma would send that first. Ondra comes off as such a whiny bitch.

Anyone have some insight on the best way to start building shoulder strength again while getting back into climbing? My PT gave me the all-clear to start, but I'm still fairly sore in a few movement ranges, so I'm a bit hesitant.

This week I started with some nice easy v0 problems and focused on climbing as slowly and methodically as possible. Trying to be aware of foot placement while climbing and downclimbing each problem. I've only been doing 8-10 problems the two days I've been in the gym, but so far it feels pretty decent.

I'm warming up with my regular PT routine - plenty of stretching with a large band, inside/outside rotation with elbow tucked to body, full outside arc with light resistance, low angle dips - then moving on to slightly hanging to assure that the muscles/joint feels good, to a few chin-ups. I'm moving from there to the light climbing.

I'm not sure what I should be doing for cool-down currently, but I'm currently doing a bit more stretching and taking a mild anti-inflammatory.

Are you trying to start building climbing strength through climbing or outside of climbing?

Jessper_sl said:

I'm glad we have some climbers on this board. I started climbing last summer and have really gotten into it. Just at gyms so far but I want to get out to Tahoe to do some trad this summer if I can find someone that's got a proper idea of what to do.

Unfortunately I took a bad fall snowboarding and tore my AC, so I'm totally unable to climb for a few months at least. Not being able to climb is absolutely the worst part of the injury.

Anyone here have a good idea of shoes for larger sizes? I wear a 13 US, and finding proper shoes has been a bitch. I've tried looking around on the internet (local shops discriminate against larger sizes by never carrying them) but have not had much luck for anything outside of real basic shoes.

Click to expand...

when you say you are a 13 is that your street shoe or you climbing shoe size? I wear a 14 street shoe but I climb in 12s. Decent entry level shoe that comes in sizes up to 14 is the La Sportiva Tarantulace, I started with those, a little inconsistent between pairs on the stickyness of the rubber but over all an ok starter shoe that is comfortable to wear all day and lace up is nice to tighten as they streach.

Another site I really like is eveningsends.com it is Andrew Basharat (misspelled) blog he is an editor for rock and ice.

Mageling_sl said:

Anyone have some insight on the best way to start building shoulder strength again while getting back into climbing? My PT gave me the all-clear to start, but I'm still fairly sore in a few movement ranges, so I'm a bit hesitant.

This week I started with some nice easy v0 problems and focused on climbing as slowly and methodically as possible. Trying to be aware of foot placement while climbing and downclimbing each problem. I've only been doing 8-10 problems the two days I've been in the gym, but so far it feels pretty decent.

I'm warming up with my regular PT routine - plenty of stretching with a large band, inside/outside rotation with elbow tucked to body, full outside arc with light resistance, low angle dips - then moving on to slightly hanging to assure that the muscles/joint feels good, to a few chin-ups. I'm moving from there to the light climbing.

I'm not sure what I should be doing for cool-down currently, but I'm currently doing a bit more stretching and taking a mild anti-inflammatory.

Click to expand...

I would say just keep doing the PT exercises, and gradually ramp up the climbing. A lot of the strengthening that climbing provides is difficult to mimic with weight training, but of course you have to be careful not to jump back into climbing at your max. Spend a lot of time focusing on using your lats while you are pulling up on the holds, and work on using your legs to push/pull when appropriate instead of relying solely on your arms.

As for warm-up/cool-down: I tend to warm up by doing 5 minutes of cardio (rowing machine if it's available, or sometimes running to the gym counts), then 3 easy to moderately easy climbs where I focus on technique and down climb each one, and lastly, I spend a solid few minutes doing full body static stretches before trying anything more difficult. After that, I tend to climb some more challenging routes, but a few grades below where I plan to project for the day. As for a cool-down, it depends a lot on what my climbing plan for the rest of the week is, but more often than not, I will try to do laps (down climb the route after completing) on a few routes that are a little more difficult than what I warmed up on. If I don't plan to climb for a couple of days, I will usually push myself until I can't climb up the route any longer, for an endurance building exercise. This can work well with a partner, where you switch off climbing the same route, and your only rest period after a lap is while he/she climbs up and down the route, and you both go until you can't climb up to the top of it anymore or can't down climb very much.

The most important thing is to keep climbing, since as I said earlier, it's tough to prepare for climbing without climbing, just try to be aware of your body and don't push yourself until your shoulders stop bothering you (and even then, ease back into trying difficult routes).