Rock climbing: Bouldering,Sport,Trad, Free solo, Deep water

Mageling

Mageling

Bronze Knight of the Realm
232
0
vGrade_sl said:
I usually dodge low grade classics because they get climbed so much the friction is gone. In the south we have sand stone and it can be the worst. As new editions of the topos come out many problems get upgraded. A good example is Bum Boy v3 at Horsepens 40 Alabama. When that thing was put up decades ago the slopers you are slapping your hands on were like sand paper. Now its ice. It also seems the higher in grade you go the better the friction because fewer people attempt the problems.

Climbing outside for the first time is humbling for anyone primarily because in gyms holds pokes out where outside the holds mostly go in ( at least in the south) like water groves. You have to relearn how to aim. You cant over shoot a hold and fall down on it. The more you go outside the better you will get at it and quick the stronger you are in the gym
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The classics in Leavenworth are still pretty good. Everything out in Icicle Creek gets some traffic, but there are some fantastic problems that seemingly don't see people. Most of what we see here is granite, so we'll get small flakes that become murderous crimps, pretty good slopers, and an occasional jug.

I'm excited to make another full weekend trip out there at the beginning and middle of June. My hands are still pretty chewed up, but that'll fade over time. Next on my list is to figure out what I want to buy for a crash pad. My local gym said they're going to start carrying Organic pads, and I've had my eyes on the Organic Big Pad. I used one last weekend and loved it over the other pads we had. I've heard good things about the Flashed Ronin pad as well, but they're super spendy.
 
vGrade

vGrade

Potato del Grande
1,676
2,566
A little roof fun at my gym
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Mageling

Mageling

Bronze Knight of the Realm
232
0
I saw that Jan Hojer training video on my climbing group the other day. Dude is crazy!

I'm down for shoulder surgery within the next couple weeks. Had some shithead walk below me at my gym while I was taking a fall. It's a kids/adult area, so I feared landing on a kiddo. Landed on my shoulder/head and fractured my collarbone, dislocated my AC joint, torn muscles in my rotator cuff, and strained ligaments in my neck. Fucker didn't even stop to see if I was ok.

I ended up missing out on one trip to Leavenworth, and another in a week and a half. Hopefully I can get rehabbed up by spring of next year.
 
latheboy

latheboy

Trakanon Raider
830
1,032
I climbed heaps but haven't done much in the last couple of years.

Mt Araplies and the Grampians where my hang outs in Australia.
Every second weekend i was there.
Best i got was a V10.

Built a bouldering gym in Melbourne for a mate ....http://www.thelacticfactory.com.au/
And have done bugger all climbing since, blew both my elbows out.

Really should get my arse into gear and climb again.

I built this for the fun of it.
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Below is not me, just a wanker at the gym.
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M

Mur_sl

shitlord
234
0
Hoowee look at all the pebble pinchers. Crazy the shit you guys send. I'm a disciple of the wide. Give me a long moderate trad route, or a old run out slab, and I am a happy man. I've been in purgatory for the last 4 years living in Austin, (I need to hit E-rock), after 10 years in Vegas. That southern sandstone sure looks nice though.
 
P

phen_sl

shitlord
36
0
Not going to the rendezvous, but I had a chance to climb at Red Rocks for a day this winter and it was awesome. I've been fortunate enough to climb all over the country and my 1 day at red rocks left me feeling like it was one of the better bouldering areas in the country. The rock is so dreamy! I only bouldered while I was there, but the routes looked amazing also.
 
Jim Russel

Jim Russel

Lord Nagafen Raider
509
50
Just did my first alpine climb. Kicking steps in hard snow up a steep gully to get to the rock climb was pretty sketchy. 12 hour day was exhausting. Climb was easy (I followed). Lots of fun.
 
vGrade

vGrade

Potato del Grande
1,676
2,566
Tore my pectoral major last month. It sounded like a wet towel ripping. I went from bouldering v12 and doing 1 arm pull ups to not being able to unscrew the top off my sons sippy cup over night. Doc says I may never boulder again. Sucks because I had my sights on the ABS nationals this year. To many hard right hand gastons in a 4 hour training session. Fuck injuries. It's not even a common climbing related injury.
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F

fat12_sl

shitlord
20
0
Sorry to hear about your injury man. Hope there is something fun to take up the time you'll be doing while healing.
 
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