Rock climbing: Bouldering,Sport,Trad, Free solo, Deep water

I appreciate all of the support and recommendations. These last few weeks have been a lot of learning, that's for sure. I've been focusing on form while up/down climbing mainly v0-v1 problems while either making at least one foot movement per hand hold, or "silent climbing" where if I make any obvious sounds with my feet, I come down and begin over. It's helped me be more aware of keeping from barn-dooring and has been helpful while moving back into v2-v3 problems and regaining some of my strength.

I'll definitely keep up with the PT. I don't see that stopping for some time, and it's a great way to warm my shoulders up as a whole from what I've experienced with climbing after my cardio/PT. My vinyasa yoga instructors at the gym are big on making sure people share any troubles they may have with positions/movements and requests to work on certain areas and help me out with finding movements that accomplish the same task while assuring I'm not overexerting myself.

Overall I'm feeling stronger, but it's hard tonotgo into the gym every day. I have some free weights that I can do my PT/dips/pushups/stretching at home, but I'm only doing 1-2 days of climbing in a row currently or I end up being a bit too sore the next few days.

I've found myself about where I was climbing difficulty-wise currently where I can flash most v3 problems in my gym, and finally sent my first v4 this last week when they opened up a new top-out boulder after working on it with a small group of people.

I'll try out the rowing machine after my climbing sessions since they have one at the gym, and I live too damn far away to bike/jog home (~15 miles) currently. It's pretty fantastic to see the climbing community here (as small as it is) is just as fantastic as the one at my gym and the few other places I've been in the 4 months of actual climbing that I've done.

All right, the cable on my lat pull machine just broke, and I doubt will get a new one for a few more months till we get the new house. I already do deadlifts and bent over rows, Other than pullups any good suggestions for building the lats.

Kovaks_sl said:

All right, the cable on my lat pull machine just broke, and I doubt will get a new one for a few more months till we get the new house. I already do deadlifts and bent over rows, Other than pullups any good suggestions for building the lats.

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More climbing! Seriously though, see the feedback I gave mageling above...if your goal is getting better at climbing, just climb more and focus on doing circuits on easier climbs if you are feeling limited by your forearms.

theawddone_sl said:

More climbing! Seriously though, see the feedback I gave mageling above...if your goal is getting better at climbing, just climb more and focus on doing circuits on easier climbs if you are feeling limited by your forearms.

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I've seen some pretty drastic improvement over the last few weeks since I've started climbing again and it definitely feels good. For the Seattle folks, they've bumped up the difficulty of the ratings at SBP with the new route setter, though they're still pretty easy compared to outdoor problems. I've made the jump from barely being able to finish v3 problems to actively projecting v4s.

I'm thinking that I may be nursing my shoulder a bit much and have in turn managed to start to over-work my elbows. It feels like I have a bit of an overuse problem starting with the tendons on the "inside" of my upper arms, mainly on my right arm (the one I borked up before). I think I just need to take a bit of rest and let things die down a little. I've been climbing and working out pretty hardcore over the few weeks.

vGrade_sl said:

Buy a hang board

My first v12

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Nice man. How long were you projecting it?

Kovaks_sl said:

All right, the cable on my lat pull machine just broke, and I doubt will get a new one for a few more months till we get the new house. I already do deadlifts and bent over rows, Other than pullups any good suggestions for building the lats.

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Some people dance

Vgrade, what problem is that?

I thought that was the shield. Not to be an asshole or anything, but that picture's on the V5 section of the shield, any pictures or videos of the send? Having worked on it, I know that thing gets hella hard after that. I'd be curious to know your beta. Also, what other areas do you climb at in the SE? If you're sending V12, you should come out to to Rumbling Bald in NC! I live in Asheville and would be happy to show you around. There's tons of open projects in the V11+ range.

Duh, midnight lightning =P.

I did I think I can, right next to reflections on my last trip quickly, but didn't try reflections.

The height thing is one of my favorite aspects of climbnig. I'm pretty short, at 5'6, but that doesn't hurt my ability to climb at all.

About 3 weeks to go till I hit up Red Rocks for my first crack at multipitches.

Have been doing up and down climbs on easier runs (40ft wall) with my full trad rack on my harness in the gym to prep for it.
Got 16 up and down on a 5.8 and just fell off at the very end I was so exhausted lol.

Also Russian stepping on the lead runs. Don't know if its called that everywhere, but when you climb to the first clip, unclip, climb down the the bottom (but feet stay on the wall). Up to the second clip, unlcip on the way down to the bottom etc.

And people wonder why I say you need a bit of a masochistic streak to be a climber hah.

Haven't read through the whole thread, but I have been climbing quite a bit the past few years, so I figured I would come add. Live in NH, so have easy access to Rumney, which makes climbing all that more enjoyable. VERY much recommend getting up here to see the place if you haven't.

Rumney

(Side note - if you haven't used / seen MountainProject site, it's awesome. I'm assuming most of you climbers have been there though).

Also - here's an interesting read about technique:Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?

That's a very good article. I hadn't really thought about the finger part until recently. Most of the v3-v4 problems I've been climbing at my gym have been super crimpy recently and my ring finger on my left (dominant) hand has been sore to the point where I'm cutting back on climbing and only working open hold problems.

Vodo_sl said:

About 3 weeks to go till I hit up Red Rocks for my first crack at multipitches.

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View from the anchor station on the 3rd pitch.....and the fuckers that rapped down on top of us and triggered a bit of a landslide in the process. Good golf ball sized rock smacked me in the shin LOL.

Had my first outdoor bouldering trip to Leavenworth this weekend. Holy damn was that a humbling experience. Primarily stayed in Icicle Creek Canyon and was chewed up and spit out even by a lot of the classics. Climbing on crimpy granite will definitely destroy your hands! I'm making another trip out in June, but this was a great scouting trip. Weather couldn't have been better as well.