Rock climbing: Bouldering,Sport,Trad, Free solo, Deep water

My local crag. Nothing spectacular, but you use what you're given

Woad_sl said:

Fuck I'm sore, but had a good time. Was able to do a 5.8 before I lost all my grip strength. Found out there's a new gym even closer to me so I'll probably be checking that out this week. Hopefully I'll hurt less afterwards.

Click to expand...

I've only been bouldering so far since it's a bit cheaper to get into, but if any of you guys from Portland ever find yourselves up in Seattle, shoot me a message and I'll give you one of my free passes toSeattle Bouldering Project.

I'm rehabbing my shoulder currently, but hope to be climbing again within 2 months. Dislocated my shoulder and pinched a nerve pretty bad, then my first day back I mucked up something on the outside of my shoulder. Definitely didn't do enough rehab even though it felt great at the time. I've only been climbing since August, so I'm only a v3 climber trying to get into v4 problems, but I always enjoy the social aspect of climbing with other people, and most everyone I've met at SBP have been awesome people.

SBP is my gym, as well! Look out for me with a brown beard and often wearing either Windows Phone or CubeSat t-shirts, on anything up to v7

SBP grading makes me feel good about my climbing ability. Still, I like that gym.

theawddone_sl said:

SBP is my gym, as well! Look out for me with a brown beard and often wearing either Windows Phone or CubeSat t-shirts, on anything up to v7

Click to expand...

I'm only doing cardio in the gym until my shoulder gets on the mend.Started climbing in August, so I feel pretty good about being able to sight climb v3 problems, though Christine's problems can bite me. That chick has bionic shoulders.

I'll keep my eyes out for ya, though bearded folks are about half the people there. When I get climbing again I'll shoot you a PM and we can meet up there. I'm always up to meet new folks and climb in a social setting. I feel like I get a lot more done over time, plus picking people's brains for beta isn't something I mind doing.

@ Etwynn - I love the staff at SBP. It seems like such a nice environment compared to Stone Gardens (Only other place I've climbed)

Etwynn_sl said:

SBP grading makes me feel good about my climbing ability. Still, I like that gym.

Click to expand...

Yep, me too definitely! I went to planet granite in the south bay in California in December, and was having a pretty tough time climbing even 2 levels below what I do at SBP, but hey, at least I can see improvement, so maybe it's a better way to judge improvement?

Mageling_sl said:

I'm only doing cardio in the gym until my shoulder gets on the mend.

Started climbing in August, so I feel pretty good about being able to sight climb v3 problems, though Christine's problems can bite me. That chick has bionic shoulders.

I'll keep my eyes out for ya, though bearded folks are about half the people there. When I get climbing again I'll shoot you a PM and we can meet up there. I'm always up to meet new folks and climb in a social setting. I feel like I get a lot more done over time, plus picking people's brains for beta isn't something I mind doing.

Click to expand...

If you strained your shoulders by over-exerting them rock climbing, make sure you are doing some exercise to help improve them, as well as cardio, otherwise you will just hit the same problem again when you return to climbing. I hit almost that exact issue when I first moved here because I was able to climb a lot more regularly than I was in school, after going to a PT and taking a month off, I am still doing the shoulder/rotator-cuff support muscle strengthening exercises and they definitely have helped me climb harder.

I do these rotations a lot:http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html,http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html

there's also a bunch of other ones, take a look around for strengthening the rotator cuff if your symptoms sound similar to what I described, it's a pretty common climbing injury from what I can tell.

theawddone_sl said:

If you strained your shoulders by over-exerting them rock climbing, make sure you are doing some exercise to help improve them, as well as cardio, otherwise you will just hit the same problem again when you return to climbing. I hit almost that exact issue when I first moved here because I was able to climb a lot more regularly than I was in school, after going to a PT and taking a month off, I am still doing the shoulder/rotator-cuff support muscle strengthening exercises and they definitely have helped me climb harder.

I do these rotations a lot:http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html,http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html

there's also a bunch of other ones, take a look around for strengthening the rotator cuff if your symptoms sound similar to what I described, it's a pretty common climbing injury from what I can tell.

Click to expand...

Those are exactly the exercises that my PT wants me to work on. I didn't want to pick up one of the exercise bands since it's not covered by my insurance, so I've just been using the machine at the gym when I go in to do cardio. I'm only doing ~15lbs with my right arm currently, and plan on taking it very slowly. The initial injury was caused from climbing the ceiling at SBP and I lost a heel hook and thought I could just keep my right hand hold and dislocated my shoulder.

Cardio is balls right now from my lung cancer, but my oncologist and everyone thinks it's a great idea to try do some extended elliptical/stair-climber where I can keep ~170bpm heartrate. I managed several sets of 50 flights of stairs last night and I'm pretty much done until this weekend.

Good to know that other people have had similar shoulder issues and have managed to get back within a few months. I figure when I can steadily get 5-6 sets of 20 reps without feeling sore the next day, I might try to do some walk-offs to retrain my obliques and get into some of the beginner yoga classes at SBP and back onto some v0 problems. I miss climbing so much, but I just can't jump back in until I'm properly healed. Thanks for the links on the exercises, it helps me realize I'm headed in the right direction.

It is all about reasonable and active recovery from injury. When something feels ok, keep it up, but know your limits. A complete lack of activity like a lot of people seem to do following up an injury is (with exceptions) definitely not the way to go. Glad you are doing better, stick with the yoga, easy problems, and cross train a bit in the meantime. Dude you are hard as nails. Overcoming all this like a boss.

I wish we had a good climbing center around.. My fatass probably couldnt get up the kiddie wall though

raleigh29_sl said:

I wish we had a good climbing center around.. My fatass probably couldnt get up the kiddie wall though

Click to expand...

Everybody starts somewhere man.
Some of those ripped motherfuckers at the gym started climbing 5.6's

NeverlosT_sl said:

It is all about reasonable and active recovery from injury. When something feels ok, keep it up, but know your limits. A complete lack of activity like a lot of people seem to do following up an injury is (with exceptions) definitely not the way to go. Glad you are doing better, stick with the yoga, easy problems, and cross train a bit in the meantime. Dude you are hard as nails. Overcoming all this like a boss.

Click to expand...

It's been quite nice this last week. I'm almost at 100% range of movement, and I'm going to get back into water aerobics in the next couple weeks as well after things calm down with work. Having 30-60 minutes that I can drop into my gym and get a light sweat going is great! I didn't even think about working my left shoulder, which has been great up to this point.

The hardest part has been realizing my limits. You definitely don't heal as quickly when you're in your 30's.

raleigh29_sl said:

I wish we had a good climbing center around.. My fatass probably couldnt get up the kiddie wall though

Click to expand...

Can you climb a ladder? If so, you can climb a beginner problem.

vGrade_sl said:

From one of my favorite movies Pure.

Click to expand...

Holy shit, that dyno at 1:50 is insane.

Mageling_sl said:

Holy shit, that dyno at 1:50 is insane.

Click to expand...

Ya a dyno that big to a sloper + your feet cutting out. Jeez LOL

Wish I coulda climbed with you Austin folks (climbed pretty often at Reimer's, Gus Fruh, ARG), but I'm off to Northern California tomorrow! Anyone up in that area?

Dang there's some crazy climbers out there. I tried out gym climbing as an intro to trad and quickly found out my arms are super prone to tendonitis so no serious climbing for me. I am into mountaineering but mostly just scrambling. I just get to watch and appreciate the pros like Chris Sharma.