Woodworking

Lanx

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not my pic but
d34e326ea2312645aaebab40f17ef27b.jpg


i do still have the pine dresser that my wife and i got right after college 25yrs later, and it's really dated and serves no purpose in a modern bedroom, so yea why not repurpose it and put it in my garage? plus it'll make a great work bench
so i moved my pine dresser from my 2nd floor to the garage, it wasn't easy it's really long at 70inches and i had to move it out to my front door and in through the garage that way. anyway the only side of the garage i can put it on has a thick baseboard (or whatever you call this transition from the floor to the wall)
ThZBtzUlP9JssqsimR0xCMQKNm-vJwi8KFVguO3GYNg.jpg

so if i want the dresser flush to the wall do it
1. shave off a lot of the feet
2. rise up the entire dresser
3. cut out a 4in strip board and place it against the wall

i'm pretty sure shit is gonna fall behind the dresser w/ that 4in gap, hell the feet itself bulges out and creates a gap by itself and over the years i've had the dresser shit always falls behind it.
 

BrutulTM

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You could put a shelf on the wall that would come out and fill the gap.
 

Goatface

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how tall is the dresser? i would raise it up, unless makes it too tall.
or put it on wheels, build a 4" by 70" set of shelves behind it, could store small stuff like spray paint/bottles out of the way till needed
 

Lanx

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how tall is the dresser? i would raise it up, unless makes it too tall.
or put it on wheels, build a 4" by 70" set of shelves behind it, could store small stuff like spray paint/bottles out of the way till needed
just under 3ft
 

Intrinsic

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I think a set of locking casters is a good idea, but I’m biased about having moveable benches in my shop. That way you could still pull it out to vacuum behind it. Otherwise yeah, put a shelf to cover the gap. Oh or one of those strips they make for range ovens! Haha

Linda's Essentials Silicone Stove Gap Covers (2 Pack), Heat Resistant Oven Gap Filler Seals Gaps Between Stovetop and Counter, Easy to Clean (21 Inches, Black) https://a.co/cHHYcQh

Amazon links broken?
 

Lanx

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I think a set of locking casters is a good idea, but I’m biased about having moveable benches in my shop. That way you could still pull it out to vacuum behind it. Otherwise yeah, put a shelf to cover the gap. Oh or one of those strips they make for range ovens! Haha

Linda's Essentials Silicone Stove Gap Covers (2 Pack), Heat Resistant Oven Gap Filler Seals Gaps Between Stovetop and Counter, Easy to Clean (21 Inches, Black) https://a.co/cHHYcQh

Amazon links broken?
i actually had them for an old apt, but theyre made for kitchen cabs so theyre short, i'd need like 4 off them, plus i'd have to put up a brace on the wall and by then i might as well just do the mini shelf, (which is probably what i'm going for). casters might not be a bad idea too
 

Goatface

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should start about 7 mins in, starting price is $14.5k
he also has a store on etsy shop,
 
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Intrinsic

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8 minutes to get to the subject in a 10 minute video? This must be the guy writing all those recipes online that start with 10 pages of backstory about the first day of summer and the lavender smell of the flowers and the dogs and kids playing in the yard and just get to the friggin' ingredient list!

Cool machine though :)
 

Cutlery

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$225/slab, eh?

That's about exactly what I figured I could get for mine based upon the $16-$20/board foot figure awhile ago. I don't need to sell too many to pay for this entire project. The chainsaw was about $400.

In the "watching wood dry" news, I go outside and I can get 1-2 clicks on the ratchet straps every week. Things are moving along.
 

Lanx

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how tall is the dresser? i would raise it up, unless makes it too tall.
or put it on wheels, build a 4" by 70" set of shelves behind it, could store small stuff like spray paint/bottles out of the way till needed
actually i'm gonna go with this idea, i'm gonna raise it and prop the back legs on sill plate/baseboard(whatever the fuck its called) and cut 4in blocks for the front feet (i'll screw these blocks into the feet, don't want it to kick out and give way), also i'll drill two or 3 screws thru the backboard into the studs, their easy to access, just take out the drawers.

also bought a vise since i now have a workbench
3253d58e022c4c15a16d96f1f5b13a71.png
 
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Intrinsic

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Never understood why these hand tool / “traditional” woodworkers have to dress and look like they’re from the 1600s.

I do want to do this as a project though. Really nice looking table. I was going to do wedged tenons on my table but ran out of time.
 

Lanx

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so i flipped my dresser over and noticed
0819221404.jpg


these stubby legs are 2in in height and i measured the baseboard and its 4 and 1/4 high and for some reason i already had 2inx2inx1/4in shims just lyin on my floor (idk wtf i shimmed, it musta been my closet) , but whatever this is kismet so now i just gotta cut a long reinforcing strip and attach that to the backboard and then to the wall studs so it doesn't tip over.

*edit
level
0819221542.jpg


*editx2
i now realize since everything fits, i should get off my lazy ass and patch/sand/paint this ugly wall
 
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Goatface

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Approximate cost of custom boards:
For the board size 19*12*2 inches with a simple design, we will charge $500 and up plus shipping.
For the board size 24*18*3 inches with a simple design, we will charge $1000 and up plus shipping.

pretty neat, vid probably should have been 2x speed by default
 
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Intrinsic

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So we had a set back on picking the puppy up. Breeder had a family emergency and needed to delay for a few days. Gave me some extra time to work on the kennel since real life delays have taken back over.

Got to gluing up the top yesterday. Had leftover stock of Red Oak in flat sawn and quarter sawn but not enough of both to do the whole table. So in the end used 3 pieces of quarter sawn and two wider pieces of flat sawn and did a QS|FS|QS|FS|QS layout. It is helping me reduce some of the leftover pieces from other projects if nothing else.

Also wanted it to be a little darker than it was and honestly just doing a top coat would have probably darkened it enough. Instead I had some Behr water based stain that was English Chestnut. It looked lighter on the can. I've probably stained 2 things in my life and going over a surface this large was annoying. The wipe time it suggested was 2 - 3 minutes so trying to juggle doing it in patches and wiping behind while overlapping the new patches with the old. Probably should just learn how to spray things. The top right corner especially is splotchy b/c that was the area I always started with so wiped with too much pressure. I can put that side in the back and put a picture from on it lol.

I think it'll work with the cabinet though. The difference in the quarter sawn vs flat sawn was really neat to work with. Hopefully tomorrow I can get everything assembled and take a picture. No puppers until Thursday though. We have a temp kennel for her.

1661272661478.png
 
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BrutulTM

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It looked lighter on the can.

You pretty much have to do a test on a scrap of the wood you're going to stain to really find out what color it's going to be. I usually get 2 or 3 of the mini cans and put them side by side on a piece of wood to pick the color.
 
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Intrinsic

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You pretty much have to do a test on a scrap of the wood you're going to stain to really find out what color it's going to be. I usually get 2 or 3 of the mini cans and put them side by side on a piece of wood to pick the color.

Yeah, normally do and would have. Was kind of rushing to finish since I was already a couple days behind. It isn’t for someone else so no biggie. It dried a little lighter and one coat of General Finish has helped.
 
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Goatface

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this should start at 7:50 in, 1st part of the vid, he talks about operation and does some tests on stainless steel. not a huge fan of laser cut wood, but that gear box is amazing and storage box looks good. looks like it costs around $450 though

 
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Haus

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OK, since the topic of CnC has come up in here. I don't remember if I asked this here before but...

I'm shopping for a CnC. My use cases though.. aren't woodwork for the most part. But there isn't another good thread to ask this in. What I want to do is:
  • mill graphite molds for metal pouring (example : Graphite coin mold - Gringotts Galleon coin! | eBay )
  • Do some amount of aluminum milling, for example... engraving aluminum plates
  • Preferably also be able to use a laser module and rotating bottom plate to crank out those "customized" yeti tumblers.
Has anybody around here had experience in any of those spaces, or just good general CnC recommendations? My budget is moderately open ended right now, but I want to stay under $2000 if I can. Ideas? If you end up making the suggestion I go with I'll even throw in a hand made FoH belt buckle for you. ;)
 

whoo

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OK, since the topic of CnC has come up in here. I don't remember if I asked this here before but...

I'm shopping for a CnC. My use cases though.. aren't woodwork for the most part. But there isn't another good thread to ask this in. What I want to do is:
  • mill graphite molds for metal pouring (example : Graphite coin mold - Gringotts Galleon coin! | eBay )
  • Do some amount of aluminum milling, for example... engraving aluminum plates
  • Preferably also be able to use a laser module and rotating bottom plate to crank out those "customized" yeti tumblers.
Has anybody around here had experience in any of those spaces, or just good general CnC recommendations? My budget is moderately open ended right now, but I want to stay under $2000 if I can. Ideas? If you end up making the suggestion I go with I'll even throw in a hand made FoH belt buckle for you. ;)

I just did this analysis. My use cases (furniture/carvings) are not yours. However, I have some general observations:

1. Dont assume that all electronics (controller hardware) is equal. The controller has a big impact on the accuracy/speed of job processing. And make sure you have a post processor that supports the software you plan to use to generate your GCode (this is software and usually provided by the manufacturer).

2. Requiring mixed mode operation (mill / laser / plasma) reduces your field considerably.

3. Your budget of 2k won't get you a robust CNC that also runs a laser at sufficient wattage to etch metal. So youre left with a Chinese chinese menu of parts you assemble yourself, or low end setups from decent companies.

4. Another problem is anything under 2k is going to be made of aluminum. Aluminum is strong in crush resistance but weak in torsion (twist). They are hard to keep accurate to .001" otherwise if "good if its within 25 thousandths" is all you need, this is not an issue.

If you're a tinkerer, can navigate linux well enough, or like programming arduino, You'll have more fun building your own robot than making widgets. You have lots of options if this is you.

That said, take a look at avidcnc.com. They make the best aluminum mills ive seen. Easy to choose the options you want, and you assemble the kit. I don't think they have a $2k setup.

I'm curious: is graphite milling easy? It's brittle isnt it?

If you can cut it with a small trim router (16k-20k RPM) and carbide bit, all of them should do it. However, if you're making coin molds of any complexity like heads/hair, small lettering, smooth arcs in Z, it might not be accurate enough to matter.

I think Avid is a good starting point. Also look at vectric.com and check out their VCarve software. This is paid software, but its good.

5. Good results is 50% software mastery, and 50% machine quality. Software is huge. You need Design (CAD), Toolpathing (CAM - that supports laser), special "driver" support for your hardware (post processor- make sure it supports laser). Make sure you know the stack you're going to use.

Hope this was informative. Happy to answer questions. Also I don't want to harsh your tool buzz. CNC is fun :)
 
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