3d Printing and the Future of Piracy

Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
Kais said:
I've been lurking in their channel for months. It's a seriously impressive machine. The overall speed, accuracy, and reliability is crazy imo. Building one is on my radar as soon as life stops throwing curveballs at my wallet.

Look at the pif program for high quality abs prints. The queue is pretty short atm.
Click to expand...

I'm going for strictly Nylon and Carbon Fiber printing and I'm just blow away at how much detail has gone into this. With my perferred setup I see it being around 1900 bucks for thewhole shebang.

Only thing I can't seem to figure out is if it does auto-bed leveling, that is the major requirement for me. Nylon/CF are way too expensive to be just throwing prints away without it.

I also love that they supply you the 3d model so I can make replacement parts out of other materials as well, very nice.
 
Hateyou

Hateyou

Not Great, Not Terrible
<Bronze Donator>
16,306
42,392
Hekotat said:
I'm going for strictly Nylon and Carbon Fiber printing and I'm just blow away at how much detail has gone into this. With my perferred setup I see it being around 1900 bucks for thewhole shebang.

Only thing I can't seem to figure out is if it does auto-bed leveling, that is the major requirement for me. Nylon/CF are way too expensive to be just throwing prints away without it.

I also love that they supply you the 3d model so I can make replacement parts out of other materials as well, very nice.
Click to expand...
There some kind of BL Touch that works with this? They work well.
 
Kais

Kais

<Gold Donor>
850
1,526
Well, the bed is stationary and the entire gantry moves along the Z. Each of the four corners is on a belt, not a lead screw, with geared down individual motors. The bed is mounted with screw adjustments for tramming. Racking the gantry brings it square with the frame. The software (klipper) and hardware support mesh leveling and multiple probe setups. I believe the default BOM has an inductive sensor right behind the hotend and centerline to the nozzle. Months ago there was some discussion on hotend cooling performance with some of the newer high-flow setups melting the sensor, as it was so close. On the git there are some .stl's for other probe type and location mounting. BLTouch is supported.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user
Hateyou

Hateyou

Not Great, Not Terrible
<Bronze Donator>
16,306
42,392
Kais said:
Well, the bed is stationary and the entire gantry moves along the Z. Each of the four corners is on a belt, not a lead screw, with geared down individual motors. The bed is mounted with screw adjustments for tramming. Racking the gantry brings it square with the frame. The software (klipper) and hardware support mesh leveling and multiple probe setups. I believe the default BOM has an inductive sensor right behind the hotend and centerline to the nozzle. Months ago there was some discussion on hotend cooling performance with some of the newer high-flow setups melting the sensor, as it was so close. On the git there are some .stl's for other probe type and location mounting. BLTouch is supported.
Click to expand...
I don’t have experience with BL touch but a couple hobbyist friends do and they say it works just as well as ones with native bed leveling like prusa.
 
Ronaan

Ronaan

Molten Core Raider
1,092
436
I want to have a 3D printer "just because".

How hard am I shooting myself in the foot with one of the cheap ones, like the Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0 for example?
 
Hateyou

Hateyou

Not Great, Not Terrible
<Bronze Donator>
16,306
42,392
Ronaan said:
I want to have a 3D printer "just because".

How hard am I shooting myself in the foot with one of the cheap ones, like the Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0 for example?
Click to expand...
You’re not. The entry level printers are fine. I have an ender 3 and I have some great prints. I make prototypes for work, random toys and shit, organizers, and even fine detailed miniature terrain. Making such nice prints on an entry level requires more tuning, and you may run into more problems, but troubleshooting through things is a good way to learn your settings.

I have a friend with badass Prusa’s and everything just works better. Prints come out perfect first try, less adhesion problems, don’t have to fuck with settings as much. But it’s an $800 printer vs my $200 one. For what I do mine is fine. I’d love to get the Prusa for the convenience but for what I do and how little I really use it, I can’t justify it to myself.

You can always sell the cheap one quickly with little depreciation, especially if you got it on sale. Whether you decide 3D printing isn’t for you or decide to upgrade if you fall in love with it like my friend did.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
I ended up going with the Ratrig 500mmx500mmx500mm custom configuration. I waited 6 weeks and they told me the delay would be even longer, so I ended up cancelling the order and picking up a CR-6 Max.

I should be able to start assembling it this weekend.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user
Kais

Kais

<Gold Donor>
850
1,526
I'm about halfway done with my Voron 2.4 build! 90% on the mechanical and have yet to start on the wiring, still waiting on some parts on the slow boat from Aliexpress. This was Sunday afternoon when i finished up the gantry and hung it prior to running the Z belts. X/Y belting and attaching the print carriage will be saturday.

PXL_20211004_020553147.jpg
 
  • 3Like
Reactions: 2 users
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
Kais said:
I'm about halfway done with my Voron 2.4 build! 90% on the mechanical and have yet to start on the wiring, still waiting on some parts on the slow boat from Aliexpress. This was Sunday afternoon when i finished up the gantry and hung it prior to running the Z belts. X/Y belting and attaching the print carriage will be saturday.

View attachment 375944
Click to expand...

That's pretty sweet, what are you going to use for a table? I know you need something beefy that doesn't wobble (learned the hard way with my Ender 5).
What build volume?
 
Kais

Kais

<Gold Donor>
850
1,526
I'm building 300x300x290. I thought about 350 for cool points but there is just nothing i would print that large and the time to heat stabilize the 350 build chamber volume before print start would be a good bit longer than the 300 build volume printers would. I want the ability to play with nylon at some point which needs a heated chamber.

And yeah the table is something i haven't worked out yet. I want to find something with a door on the front or shelves to store parts and filament so that they aren't spread across 4 different rooms lol. I was thinking of hitting up the local ReStore (place that sells shit ripped out of houses) for a cabinet base or something. Then get a stone countertop offcut from a guy i know at a local cabinet shop. He's on the lookout for a big enough slab.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
Kais said:
I'm building 300x300x290. I thought about 350 for cool points but there is just nothing i would print that large and the time to heat stabilize the 350 build chamber volume before print start would be a good bit longer than the 300 build volume printers would. I want the ability to play with nylon at some point which needs a heated chamber.

And yeah the table is something i haven't worked out yet. I want to find something with a door on the front or shelves to store parts and filament so that they aren't spread across 4 different rooms lol. I was thinking of hitting up the local ReStore (place that sells shit ripped out of houses) for a cabinet base or something. Then get a stone countertop offcut from a guy i know at a local cabinet shop. He's on the lookout for a big enough slab.
Click to expand...

My goal is Nylon and NylonX, I want to make shit that lasts. First thing I'm working on is some SFFPC cases for myself.

I have to design my own enclosure, but since I have access to routers that shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to look into heated chambers (Haven't got that far yet). I still have to upgrade the hot end and nozzle and get a filament dryer/feeder.
 
  • 1Like
Reactions: 1 user
Kais

Kais

<Gold Donor>
850
1,526
I'm going with a Phaetus Dragon SF hotend. For firmware i'm going with Klipper so the electronics are an Rpi 4b 4gb connected via UART to a Bigtree Octopus board with 2209 stepper drivers. I have the Pi connected with a DSI cable to a 5" ips touchscreen. Klipper + Moonraker API + Mainsail web interface + Klipperscreen for the 5" display.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
Gotta figure out how to square the gantry today since it's a one belt system, otherwise it went together quickly and it's fucking massive. Helmet for scale.
 

Attachments

  • 20211009_163011.jpg
    20211009_163011.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 25
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
Finally on the first print of the calibration cube. I ended up having to load a custom firmware onto the thing, it didn't come with basic functions to calibrate the extruder or motors if needed and my extruder was not exact. I thought I bricked it at one point.

Auto bed leveling is absolutely required, having it after not having it with my first printer is a huge boon and time saver.
 
Tmac

Tmac

Adventurer
<Gold Donor>
9,376
15,930
Hekotat said:
Gotta figure out how to square the gantry today since it's a one belt system, otherwise it went together quickly and it's fucking massive. Helmet for scale.
Click to expand...

Saw the tiny pic and thought you 3D printed a bike helmet. Welllll, I am disappoint.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
12,047
11,515
After weeks of tests and calibrations I've almost got it perfected. 24 hour print, carbon fiber. Mobo mounting plate for the pc case I'm designing.
 

Attachments

  • 20211120_090625.jpg
    20211120_090625.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 51
  • 2Like
  • 2Mother of God
Reactions: 3 users
You must log in or register to reply here.