Computer Issues
- Thread starter Denamian
- Start date
Odd issue with my son's computer. He went to turn it on today and although he said it didn't come on and nothing made a sound, but the circuit breaker in the room was tripped right around the time he hit the power button. Two other pc's in the room booted fine after i reset the circuit, but his wouldn't boot. I tested the fully modular EVGA power supply with the jumper connection that came with it and the fans did not spin. I had hoped to use the same cabling by buying the same PSU, but the only EVGA PSU in stock was another 850w gold with everything modular except the MB connection. I used the same cables except for the MB one, and tried booting the system. If I hold the power button the PC turns on for a split second and then right back off. I tried resetting CMOS, pulled the GPU and one stick of ram. Same issue. Any ideas other than both PSU and the MOBO went bad?
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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you can test your psu by taking it out entirely and shorting these 2 pins w/ a paperclip
if it powers up, then your psu is fine, something else is the issue.
you can also try to "clear" the capacitors
try this first
unplug psu ac cord
press power button (this should drain capacitors)
turn off the psu in the back flip to off and might as well hit the power button again
then just wait 10mins and turn on like normal
EVGA PSU's actually come with a plug in adapter that has a jumper for testing. It definitely does not spin the fan (ECO is OFF). The PSU I just picked up from Best Buy will spin the fan for a few seconds if I do the same thing. The issue I now have is the PC will boot for a split second and then immediately shut down. It is a MSI MAG Tomahawk B550, and it won't even stay on long enough for the diagnostic LED's to give me an indication. I pulled the GPU, one RAM stick, and reset the CMOS. It does the same split second power on and then back off.you can test your psu by taking it out entirely and shorting these 2 pins w/ a paperclip
if it powers up, then your psu is fine, something else is the issue.
you can also try to "clear" the capacitors
try this first
unplug psu ac cord
press power button (this should drain capacitors)
turn off the psu in the back flip to off and might as well hit the power button again
then just wait 10mins and turn on like normal
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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since youre now using a known working psu, it's the mobo then, theres a short somewhere for whatever reason, you can take the mb out of the case and place it on top of antistatic bag, amazon boxes and power it on, maybe a screw fell off
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I did that and removed everything. I got it to bios flash using the button next to the USB. It then powered on outside of the case with no components attached. I put it back in the case and installed everything except the CPU cooler. It booted with the CPU LED troubleshooting light lit, and then immediately started smoking.... It melted some wires going from the case to the MOBO (MB5v, MBDI, MBGND) up by the case headers, and the JRAINBOW wires down by the MOBO. Now I need to research replacing those, and I'm assuming the board is causing the issue?
Daidraco
Golden Baronet of the Realm
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Im not sure whats going on, but just reading that made me feel like you just started spending more and more money the further I read.
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Lunis
Blackwing Lair Raider
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Try turning the power supply off and then hold the power button on the PC down for at least 30 seconds. This will flush out the capacitors in the power supply which might be the problem. This happens sometimes in a power outage and is actually a good thing b/c it prevents a power surge to the PC which could fry components.
Denamian
Night Janitor
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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you gotta find that short, either you case is bent or you have the wrong standoffs or an extra standoff that isn't being screwed into and is now touching something or a phantom screw
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Daidraco
Golden Baronet of the Realm
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All I was trying to get across earlier is that you basically fucked up and ruined several components with your .. uh.. "testing". At this point, you might salvage one or two things, but overall, you're buying a new computer. You might save a component or two, but from what you've said - it aint going to be much. Nice to see people at least "trying" to help you, though.
Thanks for your help! The Lian Li case came with standoffs already installed. I took a closer look, and the middle one was longer than all the others (it also tapered at the end). Being black with a black background and looking straight at the standoffs it was hard to notice. Maybe the problem? I'm assuming I need a whole new set of matching ones. Any suggestions? Odd that the PC ran fine for 6 months if this was causing the issue?
Lanx
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i mean if you were really perturbed and pissed off that a metal stand off was fucking you around, get nylon standoffs then (they are made for a reason)
LitOrange 320PCS M3 Male Female Nylon Hex Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Threaded Pillar PCB Motherboard Assorted Assortment Kit (Black) [/ur]
i "think" lian li is m3 thread pitch, which lian li case was it?
maybe for 6months there was just this magical 1mm of space where it wasn't contacting and then all of a sudden an errant kick or you opening up the case knock it around, who knows
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What you are looking at is likely the middle one isn't one you screw into, it's one that sticks through the hole naturally to hold the board on. It's normal, but some boards don't use all 9 stand off holes and you have to remove the standoffs for the holes that aren't in use.
Lancool II Mesh RGB . Based on what slippery said I explored further, and maybe that center standoff is supposed to be that way? The smaller tapered part does go inside the MOBO hole, so it still sits at the same height. It still can be screwed into though. The last PC I had built before this one was like 10 years ago, and back then the standoffs weren't pre-installed.i mean if you were really perturbed and pissed off that a metal stand off was fucking you around, get nylon standoffs then (they are made for a reason)
LitOrange 320PCS M3 Male Female Nylon Hex Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Threaded Pillar PCB Motherboard Assorted Assortment Kit (Black) [/ur]
i "think" lian li is m3 thread pitch, which lian li case was it?
maybe for 6months there was just this magical 1mm of space where it wasn't contacting and then all of a sudden an errant kick or you opening up the case knock it around, who knows
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Yeah that's completely normal. It's just sometimes boards have 8 holes instead of 9, so a preinstalled standoff will be hitting the back of the board since their isn't a hole there. It can occasionally cause problems.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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welp seems like the atx spec for motherboard standoffs is 6-32 and m3 will fit okish.
i mean honestly you can just most likey just not use that bumpy standoff and you should be fine w/ 8, heck a few times i've been lazy and gotten away with just 5 standoffs.
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Bubbles
2022 Asshat Award Winner
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this is what 9 fried WD HD PCB's look like. I had to order replacements from fucking China and then have the bios chips swapped. And then buy a bunch of new 16 TB drives because I don't trust the old drives with swapped bioses. The things we do to save porn.
btw the word "vana" just means "old", so I'd knew which ones were the fucked up ones for bios swapping.
all-in-all the total cost was around 3000 euros (new pcbs from China round 500, bios swaps another 500, and 2k for new drives). There goes like half of my new rig budget. FUCK
btw the word "vana" just means "old", so I'd knew which ones were the fucked up ones for bios swapping.
all-in-all the total cost was around 3000 euros (new pcbs from China round 500, bios swaps another 500, and 2k for new drives). There goes like half of my new rig budget. FUCK
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I'm having a weird issue, that I'm thinking is probably my monitor dieing. On just 1 of my 2 monitors it's like a certain range of colors can't get drawn correctly and I'm getting vertical lines in those monitors. So like this brick color in the back has vertical yellow lines in it. Monitor is the XB271HU that I got in 2018. Any thoughts on anything I could try?
Power supply was bad, as well as SATA cable from case. Both covered under warranty. EVGA got me a new power supply in a few days with cross shipping. It has been running with zero issues now for weeks. How exactly is a person going to figure out what is bad without "testing" what is going on? I do appreciate help and suggestions from knowledgeable people on this board.
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