Home Improvement

GuardianX

GuardianX

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Dandai said:
there's condensation between the panes
Click to expand...

Anyone know if there is a way to stop this?

I'm going to be in the market to replace all my windows in the not-too-distant future and they all suffer from this issue. Wondering if there is a window brand or something I should aim for to avoid this issue or if it's just a barometer on when to get my panes replaced.

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So, my bathroom is nearly fully destroyed now by my own hand, all that is left standing is 1 wall of dry-wall. Anyone have any suggestions on getting mortar off the floor? I did the hand chisel and I was making divots in the concrete smacking away. I wasn't driving the chisel straight down or anything but sometimes I'd get a good hit and I'd take the mortar and a chunk of concrete with it. I also want to get a uniform clear, as much as reasonably possible. I can rent tools from Home Depot or other home reno places, just need to generally know what to rent.
 
iannis

iannis

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I don't know. Would a belt sander work? Maybe that's a really stupid idea. They must make polishing strips for them though. Ever seen those stand up orbital Sanders they use to clean concrete floors, there must be a smaller version of that.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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GuardianX said:
Anyone know if there is a way to stop this?

I'm going to be in the market to replace all my windows in the not-too-distant future and they all suffer from this issue. Wondering if there is a window brand or something I should aim for to avoid this issue or if it's just a barometer on when to get my panes replaced.
Click to expand...
As far as I know, it's just an issue with windows as they get older. Just like the gaskets in other things dry rot and wear out over time, so too does the gasket in your windows. Unfortunately, I don't think window "gaskets" are as serviceable as other gaskets since they put argon (or something) between the panes.

I'd google this since I'm 95% talking out of my ass.
 
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GuardianX

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iannis said:
I don't know. Would a belt sander work? Maybe that's a really stupid idea. They must make polishing strips for them though. Ever seen those stand up orbital Sanders they use to clean concrete floors, there must be a smaller version of that.
Click to expand...

Well they make floor grinders I could use, I THINK?

Picasso3 said:
Rotary hammer with wide chisel bit
Click to expand...

Something like:

Roto Hammer 2"

with:

Bosch 3 in. x 12 in. Hammer Steel SDS-MAX Scaling Chisel-HS1910 - The Home Depot


Saw the SDS bit requires an SDS drill, not sure if that hammer drill is an SDS drill though.

Will I have to worry about putting divots in the floor? Worried because using a hand chisel and a 3 lb hammer took some chunks out of it.
 
BrutulTM

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Noodleface said:
Yeah I mean normally nothing should happen especially because my roof is newer ( less than 10).

Oh well free roof
Click to expand...

I have a conspiracy theory that insurance companies are always happy to replace your roof because then they will raise your rates because you had a claim and then make you pay for that roof several times over the next few years. I have absolutely nothing to back this up, but it does seem like they are usually pretty quick to replace roofs after a storm.

GuardianX said:
Anyone know if there is a way to stop this?

I'm going to be in the market to replace all my windows in the not-too-distant future and they all suffer from this issue. Wondering if there is a window brand or something I should aim for to avoid this issue or if it's just a barometer on when to get my panes replaced.
Click to expand...

The new windows will be filled with argon gas because it's dry and insulates better than air. Over the years, they cease to be air tight and the argon leaks out and air leaks in and air has moisture in it so the windows fog up. I don't think there's really much to be done about it except for replacing the windows which it sounds like is your plan anyway.
 
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GuardianX

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Dandai said:
As far as I know, it's just an issue with windows as they get older. Just like the gaskets in other things dry rot and wear out over time, so too does the gasket in your windows. Unfortunately, I don't think window "gaskets" are as serviceable as other gaskets since they put argon (or something) between the panes.

I'd google this since I'm 95% talking out of my ass.
Click to expand...
BrutulTM said:
The new windows will be filled with argon gas because it's dry and insulates better than air. Over the years, they cease to be air tight and the argon leaks out and air leaks in and air has moisture in it so the windows fog up. I don't think there's really much to be done about it except for replacing the windows which it sounds like is your plan anyway.
Click to expand...


That makes me wonder, is there a brand that is easier to pull the panes from or is it generally a pain in the ass.

Edit:

I ask all this because I can't tell base don the windows I've looked at.
 
Noodleface

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BrutulTM said:
I have a conspiracy theory that insurance companies are always happy to replace your roof because then they will raise your rates because you had a claim and then make you pay for that roof several times over the next few years. I have absolutely nothing to back this up, but it does seem like they are usually pretty quick to replace roofs after a storm.



The new windows will be filled with argon gas because it's dry and insulates better than air. Over the years, they cease to be air tight and the argon leaks out and air leaks in and air has moisture in it so the windows fog up. I don't think there's really much to be done about it except for replacing the windows which it sounds like is your plan anyway.
Click to expand...
Yeah maybe, but I'd rather that than buy a brand new roof up front myself
 
lurkingdirk

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Brand name windows will always last longer. Pella is a good brand, and a decent company to work with. My house was built in 1977 with casement windows. I really like casement windows for the way they open, and the fact that they seem to seal better than sliders. They're also easy to remove and replace panes if you need to.

I'm going to be replacing all my windows over the next couple of years. I have about 26 windows and 4 doors that I'll be doing. It's bloody expensive.
 
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GuardianX

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lurkingdirk said:
I have about 26 windows and 4 doors that I'll be doing. It's bloody expensive.
Click to expand...

26 panes? yeah, I think I'm around the same

I'm certain you are talking about panes, 100%!

---

So finally finished pulling off the last of the dry-wall of that bathroom and I didn't even notice a random wire just dangling. Turns out it is a loose 120 off the light switch because why not.

1548546067280.png
 
iannis

iannis

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Well I mean nothing burned down, so i assume it's not a live wire.

The last guy was very much in the "fuck this" stage of construction.
 
GuardianX

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iannis said:
Well I mean nothing burned down, so i assume it's not a live wire.

The last guy was very much in the "fuck this" stage of construction.
Click to expand...

Directly tied to the light switch in the room, so it's not constantly live but it is live every time the lights turn on.

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Edit:

Gunna look at it as a "Life gives you lemons make lemonade" moment.

3gang box for switches

Switch One - Going to add 2 recessed lights on a dimmer switch (One over tub - one centered in the bulk of the room)
Switch Two - Capping off those live ends and then prepping them to go to a fixture over the vanity.
Switch Three - Going to Double switch my Poo Fan and my heater so that top is poo fan and bottom is heater, if I can do that.
 
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GuardianX

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So, one thing I omitted from that post was the plumbing, I already know the plumbing is a clusterfuck of fuck but I wanna know what to cut before I cut it...

Ignore the red / hot connotations I'm just using colors to differentiate pipes because perspective is a little off on most of my pipe photos.

Toilet Connection, I can only assume the 1/2 inch on the left goes down and to the other toilet because of proximity:

1548558532842.png


Sink:

1548558662674.png


Finally, the shower is all I can see in the master bath (aside from the toilet):

1548560899404.png


---

From this I assume that...

The 3/4ths HOT from the GUEST sink goes to the MASTER tub, the master tub then splits and goes 1/2 to the MASTER sinks and 1/2 to the GUEST bath?

The 3/4ths COLD from the GUEST sink is the strange one (more strange...?).
  • You have a 3/4ths in on the GUEST toilet that then forks 1/2inch to the MASTER toilet and 3/4ths to ???
  • You have a 3/4ths on the MASTER bath When then forks into 1/2 inch to the MASTER sink and 1/2 inch to the GUEST bath?
Leaving me with 1 rogue 3/4ths outlet with no visible outlet point. Maybe it goes outside to the external faucet...?
 
GuardianX

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Picasso3 said:
I would cut them above the "manifold" and cap the half inch being used at each location.
Click to expand...

When you say above, I'm trying to understand that, something like this?

1548563845345.png


---

I assume the T with the 1/2 inch is the main-line and the others are the branches.

I kinda wanna run pex right now to various locations and save the final disconnects for when I remodel the master bath.

So basically Connect as much as I can through the ceiling so that when final push comes, all I have to do is snip the ground connections and then fully switch to the new stuff in the attic.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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GuardianX said:
So, one thing I omitted from that post was the plumbing, I already know the plumbing is a clusterfuck of fuck but I wanna know what to cut before I cut it...

Ignore the red / hot connotations I'm just using colors to differentiate pipes because perspective is a little off on most of my pipe photos.

Toilet Connection, I can only assume the 1/2 inch on the left goes down and to the other toilet because of proximity:

View attachment 191499

Sink:

View attachment 191500

Finally, the shower is all I can see in the master bath (aside from the toilet):

View attachment 191504

---

From this I assume that...

The 3/4ths HOT from the GUEST sink goes to the MASTER tub, the master tub then splits and goes 1/2 to the MASTER sinks and 1/2 to the GUEST bath?

The 3/4ths COLD from the GUEST sink is the strange one (more strange...?).
  • You have a 3/4ths in on the GUEST toilet that then forks 1/2inch to the MASTER toilet and 3/4ths to ???
  • You have a 3/4ths on the MASTER bath When then forks into 1/2 inch to the MASTER sink and 1/2 inch to the GUEST bath?
Leaving me with 1 rogue 3/4ths outlet with no visible outlet point. Maybe it goes outside to the external faucet...?
Click to expand...
here, i think this is a collective wtf from everyone
tenor.gif
 
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Lanx

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speaking of roofs

I'm gonna venture onto my roof once the snow is all melted and shit, i figure i should see my roof, it's the only part i haven't checked out. Even tho it's 1story ranch, the basement towards the back slopes down, so it could be a 2story fall heh.

I'm gonna install this permanent anchor
Super Anchor Safety 2815 RetroFit Permanent Roof Anchor, the cool thing is theres self sealing tape on the bottom so when i hammer it in, i guess i don't have to worry about leaks
retrofit-anchor-side-installation_1024x1024.jpg


but when i put back the shingle, how do i glue or reattach that? shingle glue?

i woulda liked getting everything in a bucket
34a21c3769fc34bc4590d705635dddf4.png


but i have no purpose for that temp anchor, so i guess i'll get it all piece meal

anything i should look out for?

again reasons for this, is i believe i should know whats up w/ my roof and also i plan to add a vent to roof from my stove, atm it's just the microwave recirculating type.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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I’m a redneck so when I went up on my roof for the first time I bought a new 400+ lb weight limit nylon rope, tied it to my deck using the knot they recommended for attaching to poles, and threw the rope over to the other side (50 ft was barely enough). I was a bit nervous but tried to only use the rope as a safety and not to support my whole weight.
 
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