Motorcycle Thread

Sludig

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Dealer Fault? Just got new tires put on after replacing stock at 10k miles. (Versys 1000) Today about my 2nd or third day of riding after the install, out of the blue my abs kicks in doing 30 or so as I was coming in to a stop sign (wasn't breaking yet iirc). I get thru the stop sign and no matter how much pumping brakes didnt knock loose or free anything up thinking my brakes were stuck on.

Pull over, turn the bike off and restart. Same issue abs light flashing and can't get to speed as it cuts power and pulses brakes anytime I'm trying to move. I was able to make it the last half mile home after disabling traction control completely, abs didnt come on even though I know you can't disable the abs itself.

At one point, the front brake when using it came right back without braking with maybe a little grittiness but no real braking action, 2-3 pumps and it seemed to be mostly fine again. When I had gotten off the bike, on the rear caliper/cyclinder/whatever you call it, the top nipple for I assume brake fluid the little floppy cap was off and there was a small amount of fluid on the area. Brake fluid resevoir on handle was full to the top or a hair below the top of the window and had a small bubble in it.


Brakes need bled or possibly ABS didnt get hooked up again right or probably unrelated to the new tires.


EDIT: Went looking after dinner, Front abs sensor hanging by a thread on the single bolt. Hoping that's the only thing though still concerned about possibly air in line with the one instance of funny brake pull and the cap off with moisture in area.


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Hekotat

FoH nuclear response team
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Definitely sounds like a sensor or air in the lines, but why would they drain that for a tire swap. Cap is just to keep dirt and debris out.
 

Sludig

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I dont know enough to know if there was a reason they would bleed the brakes. Maybe a new idiot mechanic disconnected something at some point when he didnt need to and botched reassembly? Until looking at it, I thought more of the rear would come apart with the wheel removal.

What's confusing is the rear having the cap off and that leaked fluid I'd assume is brake fluid. On other hand front brake is the one that like went out briefly for those couple pumps... /shrug. Both resevoirs seem to be at the line, though the front one has a little air in the window so not 100% full but past the line. Bubble I saw I think is just from the air at top getting cut up by the metal slot in the window.

Not sure if you saw, but the sensor is for sure since I as I edited in, it was found barely hanging onto the bike by like one thread.



Seems odd for them to fuck up both, so wondering if one happened naturally causing me to find the other issue. Dunno. (IE they didnt check abs sensor bolt and it coincidentally walked loose a few days later allowing me to catch the fluid on rear... but then the front brake issue.... idk.) The bleed valve seemed tight to my at least finger probing, but not sure how else it would have been dripping onto that area.
 

Lejina

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To remove the wheels is pretty straight forward. Remove the bolt holding the wheel in place and loose the adjusters if it's the back wheel so you can take the chain off the sprocket. Pull wheel off straight out of the disks. You may want to push the calipers/pads out a bit to clear the disk when you put it back in but most of the time I just slide it right in.

As Hekotat said, the cap is just there to keep the crap out of the bleeder. Most cars and bikes don't even have caps. I'd figure it was accidentally pulled off when the tech manhandled the wheel. Assuming the spot of oil on the caliper is all it is, that could be from oil that was trapped inside the cap. Do your brakes have the same feel as before? If they are suddenly mushy that'd be a sign of air in the lines. The busted ABS sensor cable is no bueno though and you should have a talk with the dealer about that. Looks like the tech was bumping on shit as he was working the wheels back into the bike.

Oil reservoir shouldn't be entirely full. As you wear the brakes, the oil takes space in the cylinders to compensate for the pads getting thinner. When you will replace with new pads, the reservoir will fill back up with the oil being pushed back into the system.
 

Sludig

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Wasnt busted, just barely remaining attached. Did idiot remove vs just coincidence it walked out sooon after service /shrug.
 

Leadsalad

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Don't need to touch the chain adjusters to remove the rear wheel.

And just put a dab of thread locker on that bolt so it doesn't come out again.
 

Lejina

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Yeah, true, you have all the slack in the world once you take the axle out. I've been slacking mines off a bit during uninstall with the idea that it gave me more room to play with for pushing the axle back in then I twist them back by however how much I remove the first time around. One of those things I've been doing forever and it works so havn't questioned why I started doing it in the first place.
 

Sludig

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For a big bike like mine, im a little confused what i would want to remove both wheels. Center stand for rear but then where and how do i balance against to get front off. Underside of the bike seems like all pipes and things i wouldnt think you would want to rest on a cinder block.



Niken looks like it may be a hair more than i want to pay, not sure how fast i can find a cheaper used one next year, i know they are concerned about resellers for profit. Still interested in that concourse 1400 too, though with new tires the versys does have new life in it.

Part of me wonders if inshouldnt just be patient and save a year or two and get an supered h2 since i find myself craving more and more straight line acceleration/speed.
 

Lejina

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For a big bike like mine, im a little confused what i would want to remove both wheels. Center stand for rear but then where and how do i balance against to get front off. Underside of the bike seems like all pipes and things i wouldnt think you would want to rest on a cinder block.
I use a regular stand with spools for the rear wheel. For the front wheel they make stands that pins to the triple tree. Like this:

41R3ttwvTbL.jpg


If you shop for one of those make sure it works with your Versys. Our triple tree isn't standard height by any means and they won't all work for it out of the box.

I don't have that attachment on mine, I just have the one you see on the ground next to it and I use it pretty much only to keep my wheel off the ground during winter storage. If I need to remove the wheel or do work on the suspension, I hang the bike off the rafters of my garage with ratchet straps.
 
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Lejina

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Remind me of the Skully kickstarter, so many people got fleeced with that.

Looks cool tho, I would assume you can tweak it to get whatever you want on display because the default display they show looks distracting as hell.

The bit about military grade battery is disappointing tho: that means it won't last one hour, there won't be any way to get a free replacement for defective ones and to buy a new battery will be about the same price as the whole helmet.
 

Sludig

Golden Baronet of the Realm
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I know i"ve said it. But still torn on whether to bother upgrading to concours aka zx14 with shaft drive. (Apparently 400cc is only good for 15mph more top end, and I was hoping zippier in the 0-80 territory. Sat on one but couldnt test ride, kinda cramped for my 6ft. I can see why everyone gets helibars and lowering. Still sad I missed a good deal on a 2014 plus weeks ago.

However, with fairly minor performance gains and basically a very dated platform, started eyeballing the H2 SX SE's some more.... may just save until next year for that even though in some of the shootout vids I saw, despite that supercharged fury it's not quite the far away gain you'd maybe guess? I have one dealer I think might actually let me test ride one. Otherwise most are ride only if signed papers...
 

Fifey

Trakanon Raider
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I just finished sprucing this up. Not a restoration, just a big clean-up. Rebuilt the top end (lapped valves, honed cylinder) painted front fork and fender, rebuilt carb., new cables, sealed a leaky gas tank and generally just got a lot of dirt off. Runs great and it's just about the most fun you can have at 20mph.

Ladies and Gentleman, I present my 1968 Honda CT90 K0 otherwise known as a Trail 90. She looks good for a 50 year old.

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View attachment 173054

I still need to source a new tank sticker and headlight bulb.
I love old small bikes like this, had a vespa p200 about 10 years ago and it was the best errand runner/bar bike. Been wanting to grab one again cause the hipster market moved off mopeds/vespas and into motorcycles out here.