Rock climbing: Bouldering,Sport,Trad, Free solo, Deep water

I just started climbing in the gym 3 months ago. I love it. Up to 5.11b and just did my first v4 (both gym). I'm addicted now. Need to get outside more

vGrade_sl said:

Tore my pectoral major last month. It sounded like a wet towel ripping. I went from bouldering v12 and doing 1 arm pull ups to not being able to unscrew the top off my sons sippy cup over night. Doc says I may never boulder again. Sucks because I had my sights on the ABS nationals this year. To many hard right hand gastons in a 4 hour training session. Fuck injuries. It's not even a common climbing related injury.

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How's your recovery going?

You can't get surgery to repair the tear?

vGrade_sl said:

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2nd won't load for me but Alex Megos from the 1st vid used to frequent a climbing gym where I worked a few years ago. Guy came in, warmed up, climbed the hardest routes they had set up (10+ in UIAA grades / 5.14a / 8b+) a few times and then left again. This was in 2008 so he was 15 at the time. One of the world's best climbers and he comes from the next bigger city basically. German Wunderkind. Move aside, Ondra.

It will be interesting to see what he still has up his sleeve. Kid turned 21 this year, there must be more to come.

gym traversing today and heard a loud pop originating form my forearm. No pain yet. Hand or forearm feels a bit strange. Maybe some weirdness in my pointer finger.

I had been practicing finger jams. I wonder if that could be a contributing factor. I'm relatively new to incorporating finger jam practice into my routine.

Hopefully it's not serious but even if it feels ok tomorrow, I'll probably take at least a week off.

Bummer because I had barely done anything today and didn't climb yesterday. Sunday I did two routes and before that the last time I climbed was tuesday =/.

Just went to a climbing gym for the first time last night... I love it. As a lifter/athlete I enjoy exerting myself and having a challenge for the next time that I couldn't conquer previously. Any suggestions for shoes to get, as that was my big complaint - the shoes they rent fucking suck. Also how long until my fingers callous? My palms are from lifting but I ripped open some nice blisters in the middle of my fingers.

I like La Sportiva Miura's. Five Ten's have a really deep heel cup that just didn't work for me. Every pair of Evolv's I tried on felt like a pair of bricks.

Don't remember on the when, but I liked Joshua Tree Hand Salve to keep them from ripping.

Great work! Really impressive to flash v9 after an injury like that. Pictures make me itch to get out of the rainy northwest.

Did the previous injury gnaw at your mind at all? That's my biggest worry about getting back into it at this point. My surgeon and therapists are projecting that I'll be good to go sometime around March, but I think the fear of re-injury might fuck with me for quite a while, especially since it was such an innocuous move that blew my knee up.

McQueen_sl said:

Did the previous injury gnaw at your mind at all? That's my biggest worry about getting back into it at this point. My surgeon and therapists are projecting that I'll be good to go sometime around March, but I think the fear of re-injury might fuck with me for quite a while, especially since it was such an innocuous move that blew my knee up.

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I'm a year and a half from major reconstructive shoulder surgery (fractured collar bone, torn biceps tendon/rotator cuff/bursis) and I still have quite a few problems. I've had to come to terms with the fact that it will never be more than 80-85%, and I have to really be careful when making certain moves that aggravate the biceps tendon.

I'm about where I was climbing before, but I was forced to radically modify my climbing style and focus a lot more on footwork and finesse. A few of my friends say I climb more like a girl now, but I'm finally able to keep on a wall if my feet blow off, or if I'm holding onto a gaston that's more than my shoulder width apart.

I'm definitely stronger than I was 6 months ago, but all of the downtime really took its toll on me and I put on some serious winter weight that I'm having trouble working off since I end up sore when I'm either doing too much climbing, or too much training.

Guess this is what life is like when you grenade a joint in your 30's.

I took a bad fall while bouldering in July and broke my left wrist (scaphoid). Was just messing around in my climbing gym, missed a dyno that I thought I could stick, and then missed the crash pad. Really stupid.

I was in a cast for 6 weeks, then in a brace for 3 more. Was back on the wall at the end of October after being cleared by the ortho doc. I feel like I'm getting pretty close to where I was before strength wise. I stayed active with running and doing whatever arm exercises I could while I was in the cast/brace which helped. Compared to the injuries you guys have suffered a simple fracture is pretty minor. The wrist has pretty good mobility but I still have pain, especially when doing any sort of palm up move. My pinch strength with the left hand is probably 70% of what it was but I feel like I can pull down on it just as hard as I used to.

I'm way more cautious about taking falls than I was before, and less likely to attempt moves that are at my difficulty limit if I'm more than a few feet off the ground while bouldering. I was only out for 3 months, really feel for you bros that have faced longer downtime. There's just something about the sport, my favorite hours of the week are the ones where I get to climb.

livestream of caldwell and jorgeson on el cap:

http://www.nbcnews.com/watch/live-vi...n-322484291648