Woodworking

Burns

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We're planning a kitchen reno in the next year or so and I'm probably going to tackle making all the bottom cabinets(going to leave the current tops up and just do new doors for them), so I decided to start practicing on cabinet stuff with shop furniture. Made this little rolling cabinet out of a bunch of random scrap plywood I had. Gave it a solid wood top from some old table top my brother gave me. I also used that to make the drawer handles(anyone know what kind of wood that is?). Fits perfectly under my table saw extensions, so will use it for storage near the saw. Only thing I needed to actually buy were the drawer slides. All in all, this frankencabinet came together ok. A whole kitchen job is still a bit daunting, though.

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If you want something to watch, Wes has some good kitchen cabinet making videos (found this video when looking at pillars/columns):
 
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phisey

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We're planning a kitchen reno in the next year or so and I'm probably going to tackle making all the bottom cabinets(going to leave the current tops up and just do new doors for them), so I decided to start practicing on cabinet stuff with shop furniture. Made this little rolling cabinet out of a bunch of random scrap plywood I had. Gave it a solid wood top from some old table top my brother gave me. I also used that to make the drawer handles(anyone know what kind of wood that is?). Fits perfectly under my table saw extensions, so will use it for storage near the saw. Only thing I needed to actually buy were the drawer slides. All in all, this frankencabinet came together ok. A whole kitchen job is still a bit daunting, though.

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Every tried making patterned plywood stuff from Michael Alm? Super easy to do, just repetitive and kinda tedious. I made a couple nightstands with it that have held up.


Baltic Birch edges would probably warp too much as a tabletop/countertop unless you pour epoxy over it though. He made some bowl with it that looks great.

 
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Soygen

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Every tried making patterned plywood stuff from Michael Alm? Super easy to do, just repetitive and kinda tedious. I made a couple nightstands with it that have held up.


Baltic Birch edges would probably warp too much as a tabletop/countertop unless you pour epoxy over it though. He made some bowl with it that looks great.

I haven't tried making any yet, but I've seen the videos and really love the look. Will definitely putz around with it at some point.
 
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bigmark268

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o I got my grandfathers old '47 delta unisaw and it runs still. I really want to restore it though now. Paints still good but plenty of rust to remove. Any of you guys happen to have one of these? I don't know anyone who does.
 

Zapatta

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o I got my grandfathers old '47 delta unisaw and it runs still. I really want to restore it though now. Paints still good but plenty of rust to remove. Any of you guys happen to have one of these? I don't know anyone who does.

Start by buying some Kroil and soaking all the corroded machined surfaces, then gently shave the rust from the mating surfaces with a single edge razor.

Old electric motors get corrosion on their brushes. You can try and look for replacement brushes or just change the entire motor. Find the tag on the motor that has volts, amps, rpms etc and go to a motor rewinder and get a price to replace.

Basically you want to unfreeze all the moving parts, Kroll makes fast work on a lot of that.


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I have restored saws that have sat outside in the sea air for a decade with a couple cans of Kroil and 6 hrs of elbow grease.

There really is nothing better than Kroil, it ain't cheap.
 
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Zapatta

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When you do find a motor rewinder than can get you a replacement motor take to old motor down and have them swap the pulley off the shaft to the new motor. Probably want charge you much to do it. Worth ot because it takes a couple special tools to do it easily.
 
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whoo

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o I got my grandfathers old '47 delta unisaw and it runs still. I really want to restore it though now. Paints still good but plenty of rust to remove. Any of you guys happen to have one of these? I don't know anyone who does.
In addition to Zapatta Zapatta 's advice, you should be able to find a manual online. Delta stuff was everywhere and their tools made in that era lasted forever. Many are still running today. Not sure of that model specifically, but many of the manuals had exploded parts diagrams and drawings. Should be able to tell if it's missing components. You might also find a junker on ebay for parts.

Edit: a small amount of gargling turns up tons of forum posts and youtube content on restoring vintage Unisaws. Some even specifically about the 1947. It looks like Delta is still making a "unisaw" (www.deltamachinery.com), so you may try calling them for a manual or parts list
 
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Zapatta

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In addition to Xap's advice, you should be able to find a manual online. Delta stuff was everywhere and their tools made in that era lasted forever. Many are still running today. Not sure of that model specifically, but many of the manuals had exploded parts diagrams and drawings. Should be able to tell if it's missing components. You might also find a junker on ebay for parts.

The thing about post WW2 era stuff is every nut and bolt was built to last 3 lifetimes. Being gentle with the right penetrating oils, a heat gun to unfreeze stuck nuts / bolts with a lot of patience makes 100% of it salvageable. The electric motors will never be as efficient as modern and the parts inside (insulation etc) rot, no shame replacing them with a modern one you can get 7-8 yrs out of. It is literally the only moving part.
 
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whoo

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The thing about post WW2 era stuff is every nut and bolt was built to last 3 lifetimes. Being gentle with the right penetrating oils, a heat gun and a lot of patience makes 100% of it salvageable. The electric motors will never be as efficient as modern and the parts inside (insulation etc) rot, no shame replacing them with a modern one you can get 7-8 yrs out of. It is literally the only moving part.
I agree, assuming all the parts are there... Even the wax paper/cloth wrapped wiring was robust if it didn't get too hot or have critters eat it. The varnish they used on the motor windings can get iffy after 70 years though :)
 
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Zapatta

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I agree, assuming all the parts are there... Even the wax paper/cloth wrapped wiring was robust if it didn't get too hot or have critters eat it. The varnish they used on the motor windings can get iffy after 70 years though :)

There is a special smell of trying to run old electric motors, it's a hot smell that makes people nervous. And probably rightfully so. Just change it, a complete Delta saw that runs is worth its weight in inflated Biden dollars. Watch your fingers those old saws take no prisoners.
 

Zapatta

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Full disclosure I have 3 dedicated Delta table saws. Dating from the 50s to the 80s. Each set to cut a different kind of material. I also have a bunch of old Rockwell radial arm saws. Every single one was a broken salvage when I got it. They will all outlive me.
 
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BrutulTM

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My brother and I were cleaning out one of the outbuildings when we were kids and found an old drill. Of course we plugged it in and tried to drill something to see if it worked and it did, but while we were drilling there was like a globe of sparks coming out of the sides of the drill. We went and asked my grandfather about it and it turned out before rural electrification, they had used a windcharger (windmill driven generator) for electricity and it produced 32 volts DC and that's what that drill was made to run on. Pretty interesting that it (sort of) worked with 120V AC and luckily we didn't get electrocuted.
 
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Soygen

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There's a Facebook group that's all about woodworking machines made pre 1980. Some really awesome gear and restoration stuff in there.

 
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Intrinsic

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Pretty much finished my end table present for my mom today. There’s a couple things I would like to do but may not bother. Chamfer the feet of the legs for one. Otherwise I’m pretty happy. Only finished the top and left the rest unfinished poplar bc they want to stain / paint it to match their sunroom furniture color. I swear the lighting in my shop sucks so I turned up the brightness a little on the picture

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Next project is going to be a small jewelry box I think.
 
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whoo

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Pretty much finished my end table present for my mom today. There’s a couple things I would like to do but may not bother. Chamfer the feet of the legs for one. Otherwise I’m pretty happy. Only finished the top and left the rest unfinished poplar bc they want to stain / paint it to match their sunroom furniture color. I swear the lighting in my shop sucks so I turned up the brightness a little on the picture

View attachment 398617

Next project is going to be a small jewelry box I think.
This looks great. Please do add small (1/8" / 3mm) chamfers around the base of the legs or the ends will splinter as the table is moved. As soon as someone drags it, it will snag fibers. Even with nylon gliders if it's on carpet you'll get splintering. It's worth the 5 mins to sand/file/plane the chamfer
👍
 
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Bandwagon

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Pretty much finished my end table present for my mom today. There’s a couple things I would like to do but may not bother. Chamfer the feet of the legs for one. Otherwise I’m pretty happy. Only finished the top and left the rest unfinished poplar bc they want to stain / paint it to match their sunroom furniture color. I swear the lighting in my shop sucks so I turned up the brightness a little on the picture

View attachment 398617

Next project is going to be a small jewelry box I think.
That's gorgeous. I'm jealous.
 
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BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Pretty much finished my end table present for my mom today. There’s a couple things I would like to do but may not bother. Chamfer the feet of the legs for one. Otherwise I’m pretty happy. Only finished the top and left the rest unfinished poplar bc they want to stain / paint it to match their sunroom furniture color. I swear the lighting in my shop sucks so I turned up the brightness a little on the picture

View attachment 398617

Next project is going to be a small jewelry box I think.
dowel joints?
 

Intrinsic

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dowel joints?

Pocket hole and glue on the inside for most everything, hidden by the drawer so didn’t mind. Was going to plug them but since you can’t see them haven’t done it. That was another finishing thing I was talking about getting around to. Top is figure 8s which, now that I’ve learned, screwing in to sapele sucks with the cheap ass screws from Everbilt. Even with 1/8” pilot holes I still broke screw heads off using a manual screw driver and barely any torque. Was going to go up a size on the pilot but tried out some of the “higher end” screws and they went right in no pilot hole on my scrap piece I was testing on.
 
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whoo

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Even with 1/8” pilot holes I still broke screw heads off using a manual screw driver and barely any torque.

Try using paste wax or a soft beeswax candle to lubricate your screws before driving them in.
 
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