Miniature Painting

Hateyou

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Well one of you is responsible for me going on a mini buying binge. I think it was Hateyou, in some other random thread.

I used to go to work with my Dad in Princeton as a kid. Right by the university there was a shop that sold lead/metal minis. I loved going there so much. So now I'm dangerous because I have money to spend on this stuff.

I bought some on Amazon, some on Miniature Market. Anyway I'm looking at 20 D&D minis on my desk and more on the way. I bought a Reaper Miniatures starter paint set too. So I guess I'll try to paint these!

I watched this vid: and a few others.
Read a few Reddit posts. Any good resources appreciated.

Yes it was me, I apologize for nothing.

I’d suggest starting with Sorastro, he’s good at explaining what he’s doing and why, without getting overly technical. Once you get his basic stuff digested, you can check out his more technical specific stuff like blending, dry brushing, etc. then start branching into other guys who don’t explain as much of what they’re doing while doing it. When I first started some of the guys moved too quick for me, but once I understood basics it was pretty easy. Miniac was another good one that is good at explaining things in a more scientific way, but may be confusing for just starting out just because you may not know where to start, he has a lot of videos.

 
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Hateyou

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My starting advice in order.

1. Clean up any mold lines with an exacto razor knife, scrape it backwards on the line, don’t cut towards the mini, or you’ll gouge it. May not be an issue for you with metal minis.

2. Clean the mini with dawn + water + toothbrush to remove hand oils, mold release agent, dirt, etc. rinse clean and air dry.

3. Prime as thin as possible so you don’t hide details in too much primer.

4. Attach your mini to a cork, bottle cap, purchased holder, whatever. Touching the figure rubs paint off very easy, and your hand oils make the paint not want to stick. So touch it as little as possible after washing it.

5. Thin your paints with bottled water. This is very tricky at the beginning because it will seem too thin and you have to make several coats. That’s ok, it’s better than too thick and hiding detail. Shoot for 50/50 on paint to water but all paints are thinned a little differently so you’ll just have to experiment, you want skim milk consistency. Like I said though, it’s tricky. This is all so you’re applying thin layers and not hiding detail. Think of it like a haircut, if you cut too much you’re fucked and it looks like shit. If you just trim a little, you just go back and trim again and again until it looks good. Research a wet palette eventually, and try one. You can make your own for a couple bucks. I can send you a video about making one if you can’t find a good one on your own.

6. Start painting at the lowest/deepest points. So if you’re looking at painting an arm with a glove, paint the skin on the arm first, then hit the glove. It’s easier to screw up and hit raise parts of the figure when you’re painting lower parts, so if you start low you can cover up the mistakes on the high parts later. This isn’t as important when you’re doing your base layers. Because you can cover up mistakes as you start layering more coats.

7. When you’re done with the painting and happy with it, seal it with matte lacquer. Nothing will piss you off more than your eight hour paint job rubbing off after one gaming session because you didn’t seal it.

Other shit.

Buy at least one size 0 or 1 very nice brush. This will allow you to notice the big difference between good and shit brushes. Shit brushes have their place too but you should feel the difference. If you need recommendations just ask.

Wash your brushes, rinse them often, don’t let paint dry on them, use brush soap/conditioner on them after every use. Do not get paint up in the ferrule and let it dry, your brush will be fucked.

Don’t assume you need tiny brushes for good detail. You have more paint flow control with a good size 1 brush than you do with a 00. The paint dries faster on tiny brushes too because there’s less of it on there, so smaller brushes can sometimes be more of a pita than a large one with simply a nice tip.
 
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Dashel

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Awesome tips thank you! I've got paint coming and brushes. I'll start with that set and learn as I go.
All but one of my minis are plastic. I'll have to see if I like them after I paint them. I was hesitant at first but I'm understanding now why they are so common.
I like the weight of the metal but honestly with a base the plastic is good.
In the video I posted I was really surprised how good that barb came. I thought those minis he used looked awful to start but when it was painted I was a believer. And he really made it look easy after some experience.

Thanks again.
 
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Fyff

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Duncan from the Games Workshop team does great videos. They obviously try to make it model specific but he goes over lots of techniques each video. The YouTube channel is WarhammerTV I think.
 
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Dashel

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So I got the paint set which came with a Reaper Bones guy. Compared to the WizKids Deep Cuts figures, I like the Reaper Bones better. A little bigger and now I want more of them.

I'm also seeing these are called "Cheap Miniatures". What would be considered expensive?

Here are 3 I have. From left to right it's: Reaper Bones - Deep Cuts - Metal Mini

20190705_162102.jpg
 
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Haus

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So I got the paint set which came with a Reaper Bones guy. Compared to the WizKids Deep Cuts figures, I like the Reaper Bones better. A little bigger and now I want more of them.

I'm also seeing these are called "Cheap Miniatures". What would be considered expensive?

Here are 3 I have. From left to right it's: Reaper Bones - Deep Cuts - Metal Mini

View attachment 214037

Well, the reality is that the Reaper bones line doesn't get as fine a level of detail as metal figures would... This is improving over time. Right now the level of detail ranking look something like this.

Metal
Bones Black (new plastic they're using which is more rigid and better for details)
Bones White (the ones they've beem making for years).

There's also something between white and black but I can't remember what they call it and very few things cast in it. Another side note about Bones and Reaper, if you're in North Texas their factory store is up in Denton and you can get some great deals up there (like $1 paints because the label is crooked, cheap figures because a weapon didn't cast right or crooked, etc...)


On a completely different topic I just bought myself once of these :

Time to see if I can 3d print some solid human sized 28mm scale figures.
 
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Hateyou

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So I got the paint set which came with a Reaper Bones guy. Compared to the WizKids Deep Cuts figures, I like the Reaper Bones better. A little bigger and now I want more of them.

I'm also seeing these are called "Cheap Miniatures". What would be considered expensive?

Here are 3 I have. From left to right it's: Reaper Bones - Deep Cuts - Metal Mini

View attachment 214037

Games workshop and kingdom death are expensive. Kingdom death runs like a boutique shop with low production runs and high quality, so a single 28-50mm figure is $25-$50. You can also get into low production run miniatures from various companies which can get pricey. Bones are good for learning to paint, cheap miniatures for like D&D.

If you want some good medium price just for the miniatures themselves, the games from cmon and awakened realms are all good quality minis for the price. Massive Darkness are some of my favorite, wide variety in the monsters. The game is meh but if you are just after minis, the price is reasonable for what you get.
 

Dashel

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Ok let's put it this way, I'm looking for D&D style fantasy figures and not particular on who makes them or what game it's from:

Male Human Fighter with a sword and shield - Chain armor ideally
Male Dwarven Cleric with a hammer and shield
Female Mage/Wizard/Sorc - Elf or possibly human
Female Ranger - Elf or possibly human.

Size: Closer to 4 cm rather than 3 cm.

I'm not crazy picky but I want basically those 4 for a group. I'm fine paying 20-30 bucks for each for just those 4 if they are really good. Good is subjective I know... to me good is a bit on the bigger side, nice detail, good quality. Looks are really subjective obviously.

What I have now is good but they are too small I think. Whatever the Reaper Bones is. I'm measuring it at 4 centimeters, the deep cuts seem to be 3 centimeters.

20190705_173955.jpg
 
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Hateyou

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Ok let's put it this way, I'm looking for D&D style fantasy figures and not particular on who makes them or what game it's from:

Male Human Fighter with a sword and shield - Chain armor ideally
Male Dwarven Cleric with a hammer and shield
Female Mage/Wizard/Sorc - Elf or possibly human
Female Ranger - Elf or possibly human.

Size: Closer to 4 cm rather than 3 cm.

I'm not crazy picky but I want basically those 4 for a group. I'm fine paying 20-30 bucks for each for just those 4 if they are really good. Good is subjective I know... to me good is a bit on the bigger side, nice detail, good quality. Looks are really subjective obviously.

What I have now is good but they are too small I think. Whatever the Reaper Bones is. I'm measuring it at 4 centimeters, the deep cuts seem to be 3 centimeters.

View attachment 214044

These guys have some larger scale stuff. I didn’t search for what you’re looking for specifically but they have a wide range and good quality.


D1F8AB0B-0B90-41AF-9142-A34F0583D6ED.jpeg
 
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Dashel

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Ok that's what I'm talking about. Hero Forge. Make your own. Looks awesome:

214055
1562379969584.png
 

Haus

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My first print on my new high res 3d resin printer was a Hero Forge design.
Still need to clean him up and paint him though...
214108
 
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Hateyou

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My first print on my new high res 3d resin printer was a Hero Forge design.
Still need to clean him up and paint him though...
View attachment 214108

Cut that blade off and paint it as if he’s holding a big dong and paint FOH on his shoulder pads. This was just a practice mini anyway right...
 
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Rengak

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Awesome tips thank you! I've got paint coming and brushes. I'll start with that set and learn as I go.
All but one of my minis are plastic. I'll have to see if I like them after I paint them. I was hesitant at first but I'm understanding now why they are so common.
I like the weight of the metal but honestly with a base the plastic is good.
In the video I posted I was really surprised how good that barb came. I thought those minis he used looked awful to start but when it was painted I was a believer. And he really made it look easy after some experience.

Thanks again.

Hateyou covered a lot of the good stuff, but I will add a good trick to learn is zenithal priming. Prime the model black, then prime the model grey or white while holding either the mini or the can at a 45ish degree angle. This will let you know where the shadows and highlights will naturally fall. If you want to get really crazy, you can do black, then grey at 45ish degrees, then a little white at 80ish degrees. When done take pictures to reference later.

Here are a couple pictures I still have of what it looks like. Since the model is mostly yellow when done, I went brighter on the priming.
20181125_154053.jpg
20181125_154107.jpg
 
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Kovaks

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I fucking suck at taking pics of minis but I thought I would share, my 5 almost 6 year old got me this for fathers day and we painted it together, he did pretty much everything except the teeth claws and eyes.

20190706_145017.jpg

20190706_145040.jpg

20190706_145048.jpg
20190706_145100.jpg
 
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Haus

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Cut that blade off and paint it as if he’s holding a big dong and paint FOH on his shoulder pads. This was just a practice mini anyway right...
Just reprint what Hateyou Hateyou suggested. Also give him tits and a dick.

I'm working at getting better at Meshmixer and Fusion360 to start tinkering with models.. I'll make getting the most unfortunately butch dildo swinging tranny out ASAP. ;)

Here's the original now primed. You can see the details a bit better.

214295


This model was generated at a site called HeroForge where you can design them, then pay the $10 to download a printable STL file.
 
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Dashel

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Haus looks great! What did you use to prime it?

If anyone has a really good deep blue they can suggest or really any favorite paints id be interested in hearing which. I'll be painting soon!
 

Haus

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Oh I'm shameful, since it's resin, which will take almost any primer I use the Rustoleum 2x ultra-cover primer in a can from Home Depot. For my FDM printed ones where I have layer lines and such to deal with I have an auto-body "gap filling sandable" primer.
 
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Kovaks

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Haus looks great! What did you use to prime it?

If anyone has a really good deep blue they can suggest or really any favorite paints id be interested in hearing which. I'll be painting soon!
For blue I think my favorites will always be p3 cygnar blues, and the come is a base highlight pair.
 
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