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Kolohe
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Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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look at all the shavings on the floor, i think he's just whittling away right there, also outlet install is jank
Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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Old timer trick, trace with a pencil in a flat washer, a larger washer for first pass to rough cut to get close than a small washer to get it cunt hair tight.
Hard to beat the Old School ways of laying stuff out with just a string, compass ruler and square.
You can buy a spiffy and expensive laser level that is +/- 1/4" over 100 feet that will suck to use outdoors or you can buy some clear vinyl tubing and a little food coloring to make a water level that is 100% accurate everywhere just like your granddad did.
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Including no line of sight requirement. Can be used around corners and behind obstacles
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Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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Including no line of sight requirement. Can be used around corners and behind obstacles
You can tell when they set a fence with a water level, it is razor blade crisp all the way around the property. only thing that comes close is an old school transit.
Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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There is an important lesson in there that I think barely anyone teaching focuses on. Even a lot of the "better" woodworking channels that aren't just self promotion of whatever ultra-modern sleek super complicated coffee table / standing desk they just put together in a 10 minute tutorial. Sellers says it all the time, though.
And that is getting away from hard measurements and using references for things. Not that there isn't a place for measuring, but it has taken me a while to get in to the habit of dropping the tape measure or ruler, and use the damn thing I just cut as my reference. On my nightstand I wanted the bottom shelf to be 1 1/2" from the floor and started working around it measuring 1 1/2" up and was like. You idiot, you have a perfectly fine 1 1/2" scrap of leg you made that you can just throw on there. Now when my pencil line or hand is shaking from a lack of Vodka, I won't be off on 8 different marks.
Anyways, I'm not a good teacher either, there was a point at the beginning of this post.
And that is getting away from hard measurements and using references for things. Not that there isn't a place for measuring, but it has taken me a while to get in to the habit of dropping the tape measure or ruler, and use the damn thing I just cut as my reference. On my nightstand I wanted the bottom shelf to be 1 1/2" from the floor and started working around it measuring 1 1/2" up and was like. You idiot, you have a perfectly fine 1 1/2" scrap of leg you made that you can just throw on there. Now when my pencil line or hand is shaking from a lack of Vodka, I won't be off on 8 different marks.
Anyways, I'm not a good teacher either, there was a point at the beginning of this post.
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I think this is one of those major steps in woodworking that makes your work fit tighter, saves time and energy, and just works.
After layout, using only parts for measurements and reference surfaces means whatever you are building is internally consistent assuming parts are flat/square
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Coming from an engineering family it was a bit of a mindfuck to realize that if I just stopped measuring I could actually make things fit to a precision that I can't even see. The same principle applies to getting parts to fit inside a build. Just slightly oversize everything and take a minute or two with a hand plane and shooting board to get +/- 0.005 '' tolerances.
Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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You can get very lost in the weeds working with wood and trying to get machinist level tolerances in measurements and fit.
A friend DIY'd a thousand board feet of handmade tongue and groove planks to trick out an open beam ceiling. He got them to fit so tight and perfect you couldn't fit a razor blade between the gaps ... then the wet season came, all of it swelled a hair, had no place to go so every single board cupped and it looked like shit and he wanted to kill himself.
Not every woodworking project should be at Japanese Joinery levels of perfection. Wood flexs and moves, take advantage of its forgiving nature.
A friend DIY'd a thousand board feet of handmade tongue and groove planks to trick out an open beam ceiling. He got them to fit so tight and perfect you couldn't fit a razor blade between the gaps ... then the wet season came, all of it swelled a hair, had no place to go so every single board cupped and it looked like shit and he wanted to kill himself.
Not every woodworking project should be at Japanese Joinery levels of perfection. Wood flexs and moves, take advantage of its forgiving nature.
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Look up 3M Worktunes. There are a couple different versions. One has radio + bluetooth, one is bluetooth only. One is replaceable batteries, and one is rechargeable.
They are over the ear (muff style) but they are great for shops, tractor, chainsaw work, etc.
I've never found noise isolation/cancelation earbuds that can handle that level of noise. I've tried dozens.
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I'm late to the party with the work bench discussion, but I have a 16 foot workbench along one of my walls, but it's all on wheels, and in four foot sections. The can lock in a line, side by side, or in any combination. I can drag it to the center of the room and work on something large, small, whatever. I have no ragerts.
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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If you don't mind something a little more spendy, I use a pair of IEMs like this with an aftermarket bluetooth adapter. They supposedly deliver 30dB of reduction compared to the 24dB for the 3Ms. (dB is log scale, so that's actually a fair bit quieter)
NEW ER4 Earphones
ER4XR is Etymotic’s in-ear monitor for those who demand nothing less than the highest reproduction accuracy in the midrange and treble frequencies, but prefer a tastefully added bass presence. The ER4XR right and left channels are matched within an industry-leading 1dB across frequencies from...
www.etymotic.com
(They go on sale every so often for $150)
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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Is there a certain identifier for the one that takes batteries? I found one with AM/FM and I THINK it takes batteries, but all the others say built in battery. I like the look of the Bluetooth gel cushion ones
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This one uses 2 AA batteries :
3M WorkTunes Connect + AM/FM Hearing Protector with Bluetooth Technology, Ear protection for Mowing, Snowblowing, Construction, Work Shops
Edit: Amazon link isnt showing for me. You may need to search by title.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Alternatively I’ve been using my Walker shooting ear protection in the shop. Is has a 3.5mm jack for my phone, Bluetooth would have been nice. I also had / have a pair of in earbuds that would be nice and work well, except there’s never been an earbud that will actually stay in my ear. Tried every size to no avail. Really like them when they’re seated and stay. It tilt slightly and one ear kind of loosens up and it all goes to shit.
Bought a 2nd pair of Walkers for the range.
Bought a 2nd pair of Walkers for the range.
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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These are ceramic tiles with ink and about 3x layers of polycrylic.
Anyone have advice on how to get rid of the dimples that doesn't involve sanding? I keep messing these up when the sanding gets to the ink layer and smears it all over the place, so trying to figure out how to fix the dimples without doing that. Flood coat approach?
Anyone have advice on how to get rid of the dimples that doesn't involve sanding? I keep messing these up when the sanding gets to the ink layer and smears it all over the place, so trying to figure out how to fix the dimples without doing that. Flood coat approach?
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I'm assuming the dimple texture is in the tile, yes? If not, you are getting orange peel from either an adhesion problem or an application problem.
Flattening polyurethane, the only option is sanding. If you're worried about sanding through the finish, put more coats on before you sand. Better yet, use a finish with higher solids content so you get more build (like conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer).
If you want to stick with a wipe on, water based polycrylic, try 5 coats, lightly sand by hand with 400 grit or higher, then add 2 coats of polycrylic. Sand/apply 2 coats again. Repeat until smooth.
Or spray 2 moderate coats of conversion varnish, lightly de-nib or sand with 500 grit, and spray a light top coat.
Others here I think do more finishing than me and may have different /better options for you. I just do furniture.
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