Woodworking

Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Well, just broke one of my desk legs doing the mortise. I knew when the chisel hit a little resistance it was a bad idea but pulled anyways. Broke part of the side and top of the leg off. Was pretty much that whole area there. Glued it back together and don't think it'll be a huge deal at all. Cosmetically you won't even see it b/c it'll be hidden by the apron and the top of the desk. Emotionally it just sucked, so time to take a break!

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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Just picked one of these up.

What's the name of the attachment that attaches the saw to the track? Where's my Amazon wizard Lanx Lanx ?
 

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mkopec

mkopec

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You dont need a track. You need a straight edge and a couple of clamps plus the measurement from fence of saw to blade.
 
mkopec

mkopec

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Also for you guys with CAD, go download the latest cracked version of Siemens NX. Its pretty much the best solid modeling software on the market. Once you get some of the commands down, you can pretty much design anything. You can also do some basic FEA analysis for strength, etc. Set up constrained assemblies for moveable parts and articulate them, Cut sectional views...etc.

Dont mind the street shitter....
 
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Cutlery

Cutlery

Kill All the White People
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So far so good, just a bit slow going. Gotta let the bar cool off in between cuts, and now it's time to take a crash course in chain sharpening. But, the results have been nothing shy of spectacular.

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All that stuff standing up is the first cut off the top of the log, or the leftovers of the bottom, so total bark on the back side. Might see if we can dump some of those for fish mounts, or maybe I'll let the gf get into wood burning and put some "live laugh love" shit on there to sell to soccer moms for $300.
 
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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Cutlery said:
So far so good, just a bit slow going. Gotta let the bar cool off in between cuts, and now it's time to take a crash course in chain sharpening. But, the results have been nothing shy of spectacular.

View attachment 416691
View attachment 416692

All that stuff standing up is the first cut off the top of the log, or the leftovers of the bottom, so total bark on the back side. Might see if we can dump some of those for fish mounts, or maybe I'll let the gf get into wood burning and put some "live laugh love" shit on there to sell to soccer moms for $300.
Click to expand...
I can engrave anything up to 10in x 18.5in, if you feel like testing something out (and paying for shipping)
 
Soygen

Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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So for this wall mounted liquor cabinet I'm planning, I need some suggestions/help for how to attach these doors I have. The frame of the cabinet is just 1/2" plywood and I'm going to do a face frame out of poplar. All will be painted. Originally, I was going just do traditional doors on hinges, and instead of wood panels in the doors' frames, I was going to use this crisscross looking metal mesh. This was going to give it an industrial'ish look that we want, plus allow you to see what's in the liquor cabinet without having to open it.

However, I have these two small metal gate doors that will basically fit perfectly with my planned dimensions(with minor adjustment), but I'm not sure what to attach them to. When used on a gate, they connect/rest upon a metal rod you pound into the ground. Any suggestions on an item and/or how to incorporate this into the poplar face frame? I'd like have the doors sit flush, within the frame. I was thinking maybe just using some iron pipe somehow incorporated into the side part of the poplar faceframe, and then slide the gates over the rod. I'm just not sure how to mount it and make it look good. The mounting rings on the doors are just under an inch(~15/16th) and they also come with these plastic bushings that go into the rings that are around 3/4". Pics of the gates, rings and bushings below.

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Goatface

Goatface

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Soygen said:
So for this wall mounted liquor cabinet I'm planning, I need some suggestions/help for how to attach these doors I have. The frame of the cabinet is just 1/2" plywood and I'm going to do a face frame out of poplar. All will be painted. Originally, I was going just do traditional doors on hinges, and instead of wood panels in the doors' frames, I was going to use this crisscross looking metal mesh. This was going to give it an industrial'ish look that we want, plus allow you to see what's in the liquor cabinet without having to open it.

However, I have these two small metal gate doors that will basically fit perfectly with my planned dimensions(with minor adjustment), but I'm not sure what to attach them to. When used on a gate, they connect/rest upon a metal rod you pound into the ground. Any suggestions on an item and/or how to incorporate this into the poplar face frame? I'd like have the doors sit flush, within the frame. I was thinking maybe just using some iron pipe somehow incorporated into the side part of the poplar faceframe, and then slide the gates over the rod. I'm just not sure how to mount it and make it look good. The mounting rings on the doors are just under an inch(~15/16th) and they also come with these plastic bushings that go into the rings that are around 3/4". Pics of the gates, rings and bushings below.

View attachment 416942

View attachment 416943

View attachment 416944
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1655158648701.png
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probably could make something like those out of much thinner metal
1655160000932.png

almost everything with 3/4 pin is overkill
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Unfortunately I have nothing to help Soygen Soygen with because hinges, drawers, and fasteners are anathema to me and I don't even want to try...

So will just pile on with another question regarding finishing Cherry.

I've read quite and am continuing to read a lot of threads on the topic and idea. The below was a real quick scrap piece I did this afternoon in about 45 minutes. Did a really quick sand from 80 - 220 and did equal parts Mineral Spirits, Pure Tung Oil, and Spar Varnish. Application was a healthy wiping once every 15 minutes or so with removing excess between coats until more pooled on the surface (and I ran out of time). Below is 5 coats.

Also going to try some shellac + deft laquer, and also probably some General Finish Arm-R-Seal, since I've got all those also sitting on the shelf.

1655168216448.png
 
whoo

whoo

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Intrinsic said:
Unfortunately I have nothing to help Soygen Soygen with because hinges, drawers, and fasteners are anathema to me and I don't even want to try...

So will just pile on with another question regarding finishing Cherry.

I've read quite and am continuing to read a lot of threads on the topic and idea. The below was a real quick scrap piece I did this afternoon in about 45 minutes. Did a really quick sand from 80 - 220 and did equal parts Mineral Spirits, Pure Tung Oil, and Spar Varnish. Application was a healthy wiping once every 15 minutes or so with removing excess between coats until more pooled on the surface (and I ran out of time). Below is 5 coats.

Also going to try some shellac + deft laquer, and also probably some General Finish Arm-R-Seal, since I've got all those also sitting on the shelf.

View attachment 416981
Click to expand...
Did you have a question? Cherry finishes beautifully with tung oil. The spar varnish should have some UV retarder in it, which may slow down the darkening process.

I use Waterlox a lot to finish cherry. It's a tung oil based finish with some kind of hard component (poly/varnish). It wears well on furniture. I believe it was made for floors.
 
Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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whoo said:
Did you have a question? Cherry finishes beautifully with tung oil. The spar varnish should have some UV retarder in it, which may slow down the darkening process.

I use Waterlox a lot to finish cherry. It's a tung oil based finish with some kind of hard component (poly/varnish). It wears well on furniture. I believe it was made for floors.
Click to expand...

lol probably in all my rambling and multitasking it was never asked, but thank you for answering :)

I may look in to the Waterlox for another test. Still have over a month to finish the project so can continue testing. It'll cover the whole desk. The wood itself is over 30 years old so some darkening has already occurred. I posted a picture of the top unfinished top previously and it is barely peeking out behind the test piece. Laid them on top of each other for me to compare. Will probably sand the other side of that tomorrow with a little more attention to detail, might divide it in two and do the Arm-R-Seal on one side and save the other for the Waterlox. Putting in an Amazon Business order tonight. Daddy needs a JBL Bluetooth speaker for the shop.
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Speaking of Waterlox, I found this guide last night on archive.org b/c I couldn't find a direct link on Waterlox's website anymore. It is probably there but it was easier letting the browser find the saved version.
 

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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Bandwagon said:
I can't make a straight cut to save my fucking life. I think I might be gay.
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If you watch the guys on the boat building channel they almost never saw to their line. They saw outside the line and then take it down to the line with a planer, chisel, or hand plane as needed. Perfect joints seem to me to be the product of patience as much as skill, which is why I will probably never be a great woodworker as well as why really nice furniture is so expensive.
 
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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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This was in the pile my neighbor gave me, that he said has been in the corner of the garage for ~50 years. Just wanted to take a peak....no plans.
Screenshot_20220615-220443_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220615-220457_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220615-220428_Gallery.jpg
 
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