Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
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Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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While I fully support your DIY attitude and fortitude, but when it comes to slabbing logs into lumber I usually just go find a pro-shop that does high end wood working and ask them how much to run it thru their millsaw, more often than not they will do it in 20 minutes off the clock for a case of beer. Sometime they will even let you dig in their scrap piles for some nice little bits and pieces you can use for accents.
Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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Nah, it ain't about that at all. That would obviously be the easy way. This is for my kids.
As I get older, I'm spending more time thinking about what I leave behind. No one's gonna remember what I did at work, but my kids are always gonna remember the nightstands and tables that used to be the tree in the backyard. They'll get passed down to their children and tell the story of when grandpa cut down a big ass tree and turned it into family heirlooms.
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Kovaks
Mr. Poopybutthole
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This looks very nice, just be aware though as the wood moves your miters on the boarder might spread a bit. Also not sure if pocket holes to attach the apron to to the top will allow for movement. May cause problems down the road. Then again sometimes wood doesn't move and nothing happens.
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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You saying I should have stuck with dowels?
Edit - the borders are joined to the main boards by a ton of dowels, including one in each of the miters. Not sure if that matters.
Kovaks
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Might help, might still see a little separation, usually if you want to frame a table you want to use plywood or mdf as a substrate then glue the boards on top. For attaching wood tips is use either
Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs Amazon.com: Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs : Office Products
Or
Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack
Securely fasten wooden tops to your desks and occasional tables, while also allowing for seasonal wood movement.
Both allow for movement
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I mean....it's not really a problem as long as it's not in MY living room, right?Might help, might still see a little separation, usually if you want to frame a table you want to use plywood or mdf as a substrate then glue the boards on top. For attaching wood tips is use either
Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs Amazon.com: Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs : Office Products
Or
Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack
Securely fasten wooden tops to your desks and occasional tables, while also allowing for seasonal wood movement.www.rockler.com
Both allow for movement
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I've used those figure eight fasteners (generic from Amazon) on several projects. They're great.Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack
Securely fasten wooden tops to your desks and occasional tables, while also allowing for seasonal wood movement.
The wood movement police will be knocking on your door shortly.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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The one constant I've experienced about wood movement is that it will move. Some more, some less. It doesn't matter how many dowels or glue or screws you use that pressure wants to go somewhere. Likely it'll just split between your two dowels or screws and then you'll have a crack in the middle of the table. And it moves in between you milling it, and cutting it to final size, then sanding, then sealing. Annoying! But fun because it makes me think and appreciate each part of the design and building process. Constantly and continuously learning and experiencing those things.
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Just as a gentle criticism, wood movement is why most tables are constructed with the grain running in the long direction of the top. The way you've set it up could get 3-4x more shifting than if the grain were oriented the other way. On the other hand, if it's already well-acclimated and going into a similar, climate-controlled environment everything could easily be fine.
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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Thanks. I don't mind the criticism at all...that's why I'm posting stuff here. All of this is new to me. As long as you all remember that 99% of my interest really just revolves around "Pretty Maps". The orientation of those planks is the only way I could accomplish it on the laser due to the bed size I'm limited to. Hopefully the new CNC router will help with some of those limitations once I get it up and running. As long as I'm learning more on each project, I'm happy. I've gotten a ton of great advice in here (shoutout to whomever pointed out that I should be using conditioner before staining). And
Intrinsic
too, for motivating me to prioritize a clean work space. General advice/concepts have been helping a bunch. Skill-based stuff, like making a straight fuckin' cut, are still frustrating. But I'm getting better at the stuff I'm practicing. No improvement on the straight cut stuff though. I keep talking myself out of working on that one because I feel like I need to build a dedicated table for the tablesaw. But all of this is just about maps for me. So I'm just trying to glean what I can on the woodworking stuff and then put it to practice with my 600,000 random ideas about map stuff.
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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Norseman drill bits will drill thru 3.5 chainsaw bars. Just FYI. So, one hole is 25/64" instead of 3/8". Don't forsee that being an issue.
Got the mount reinforced for the new saw, glue setting up now. Should be able to put it together and see if it will run up and down the saw mount tomorrow. Buddy also said he has some very large walnut limbs he had trimmed off I'm welcome to mill as well. Might need to put together a business model for this!
Got the mount reinforced for the new saw, glue setting up now. Should be able to put it together and see if it will run up and down the saw mount tomorrow. Buddy also said he has some very large walnut limbs he had trimmed off I'm welcome to mill as well. Might need to put together a business model for this!
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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Yeah, but that's not unusual for me.
I had chronic peptic ulcers for a long time, leading to inflammation in my small intestine which literally ends up blocking my stomach from working. It's probably from a combination of excessive ibuprofen use and excessive caffeine intake. Had to quit caffeine completely about a year ago. I ate last night, didn't feel great, and haven't eaten all day today.
I also transitioned out of the union at work and into management, and because of the holiday, everything is fucking slow because everyone's on vacation. So I'm not *technically* sure I have health insurance at the moment because my job code hasn't changed in the system. Which is probably most of it - just stressed. Me, i'm not worried about. But you know at any time your kid can biff it off their bike and you end up in the ER.
So, whenever you don't have health insurance, what's the best thing to do? Fire up a fucking chainsaw in some jury rigged contraption!
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Goatface
Avatar of War Slayer
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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So, I thought that too, but it turns out that it's not actually that springy. Once I level out the 21lb powerhead, all that's left is the natural spring in the bar, which isn't that much. I have this log leftover to run some tests on before I get to the bigger stuff. We'll see how it goes. I mean, it's all getting planed out anyway, so a little off isn't the end of the world.
If it turns out it is substantially wider on the end, I reckon I can just brace up the bar with a stick of appropriate length before the plunge. After the plunge it should be irrelevant...the bar will definitely not droop once it is inside a log.